June 14th -
DAY 10. I'm in a hotel in Dublin this evening, taxi booked for the run to the
airport in the morning. We woke up this morning to sun peeking through the
clouds and gorgeous views from our upstairs skylight-window. Oh, Ireland, how sweet
you are in your gowns of patchwork green and sunlight.
Clouds began to move in
as I went out for a walk on the farm lanes while Cel took care of her morning
ablutions. Across the road from our lodgings the local cows marched in a long,
straggling line from their milking shed to pastures beyond. On the other side
of the river I glimpsed another farmer moving his freshly-milked cows up
another lane with the help of a quad bike. I tried to spend a little quality
time in this last while with Ireland, walking one last narrow lane amidst acres
of grain that nodded in the fields not occupied with grazing cows. Among the
hedgerows birds twittered and wild roses wafted their perfume on the breeze.
I finally headed back to the house
and breakfast. There Cel and I ate with a view of the garden where the sun
briefly warmed the roses and petunias. Breakfast was delicious with all the
fixin's and then it was time to bid the garden and the house with its beautiful
conservatory farewell.
Rain showers punctuated by glimpses
of sun escorted us northeast towards Dublin, but even now we weren't in any
hurry to return the press of civilization. Celebsul opted to shift off onto the
N81 and so we wended our way through little towns and rolling green fields. At
Blessington heavier storms began oozing in from the sea and we stopped there for
lunch, picking a traditional-looking pub and restaurant. There Cel introduced
me to the wonders of chicken pate - actually very yummy when served with toast
and a garnish of some kind of jam. I ate my fill, that's for sure! Then as the
rain moved in again, we moved on.
At last we arrived in Dublin,
maneuvering our way around the M50 highway that circled the city to find our
lodgings at the Skylon Best Western Hotel. Let's just say that website photos
may not be quite accurate. The place looked a bit tatty and *tiny,* tucked
between taller buildings and we in fact missed it on the first pass. They had a
parking garage but their pay-and-display kiosk was broken so we got to park for
free. But the desk people were nice and a young man cheerfully hauled our
luggage from the car to our room. The room was surprisingly spacious, more than
enough room for the two of us and I reckoned it would do.
Once freshened up, Celebsul and I
went into the city center on the bus and submerged into the boiling busy-ness
that is Dublin. It's big, boisterous, cosmopolitan and avant-garde, the old
dragged bodily forward in time by the new. On its busy streets I saw more
varieties of human in the space of three hours than I normally see in a year.
This city bustles, strides, teems, honks and lurches down narrow streets in
two-story buses, and between it all whisk the derring-do on bicycles.
We took a brief, lovely respite from
the throng by touring Christchurch Cathedral. It is indeed a bastion of peace
and the keeper many tales. We explored it thoroughly, paid our respects to
whatever Presence lingers there and even visited the historic catacombs under
the building. Here amongst the displays of relics and shadowy but nonetheless
ornate stone memorials to noblemen long forgotten, I was more than a little
amused to find a gift shop down in those dark, stony bowels. I wondered just
how much business the little gal minding the shop actually got. Back up in the
waking world, I took a look at the black stone effigy of Strongbow and marveled
at the stained glass windows. Then out we fared into the aged streets once
more.
We rambled through a few cramped
little shops and found a cozy little nook for supper, where besides yummy
sandwiches they kept a mouth-watering display of baked goods. We resisted the
temptation, however, and once fed we resumed our wanderings. Funny how just
coming at the city from another angle makes it seem new all over again. I was
here a year ago and yet the simple fact of a different hotel and a different bus
route gave me a slightly disjointed sense of finding things strange and
familiar all at once.
Dublin is too much city for me to
stand for very long, but perhaps she is a fitting simile for Ireland today: a
place with an ancient and storied past, but in far too much of a busy hurry
reaching the future to fuss much about things that are gone. Except the Rising
of 1916. On every lamp post and corner it seemed I saw banners or signs
commemorating the century since Irish patriots - or perhaps Irish zealots,
depending on who's telling the story - blasted their ill-fated way into history
and perhaps carved a path towards Irish independence. One never loses track of
the fact that one is, unequivocally, in Ireland.
Finally the hour began to grow late
and we caught a bus back to our hotel. One more morning, one more long flight
home and the great adventure is over. Thanks, Celebsul, my friend of many
adventures, for coming with me on this incomparable journey through the land of
my forefathers! Slainte!
TO CLOSING THOUGHTS.
TO CLOSING THOUGHTS.
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