tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-79867921759322304892024-03-12T20:39:34.298-07:00Trying to fill the unforgiving minute ...G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.comBlogger76125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-50173403839677689222019-01-26T15:08:00.000-08:002019-01-26T16:24:06.666-08:00ALWAYS<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I see you, old dog,</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">with your splayed feet and slowing</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">step, gone the quick moves of youth.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I see you, old dog,</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">frost gathering on the fields and on your muzzle.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hearing still good, listening less so, but </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">you dance for me, your eyes</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">still keen, still asking, </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">what next?</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Then prone in the sun, deathlike, dreaming</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">of sheep and long horizons and other days when aging </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">bones had </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">no complaints.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I see you, old dog,</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">those seasons ago; novice trial, novice dog, novice handler.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I send you and you're gone, tremendous</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">stride pounding the green earth and</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I am in awe,</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I don't remember what to do, but</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">you do.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">You do and you run out</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">on the muscle memory of your ancestors.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I see you, old dog, </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">in the pearly dawn, gliding through the dew with sheep,</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">two hundred plus, propelled on the end of </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">your nose, bringing them without </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">sound, but the shuffling of hooves in the meadow.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I see you walking </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">before me, head down, black haunches driving,</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">shifting </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">like gears to an ancient machine that </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">moves in a dance laid down centuries </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">before. All the generations</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">whisper and you hear them, taking sheep out into the sun.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I see you, old dog, </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">on a thousand fields from a thousand posts, where I</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">stood and you ran out </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">in joy and purpose, and time</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">could not touch us there, in that space between grass and sky.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I see you, old dog,</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">you and the sheep and the earth slowly turning beneath our</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">feet. Moving on so many roads.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Your golden eyes seek mine and we both smile. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">As ever. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">As always.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I see you, old dog.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I will always see you.</span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" /></span></span></div>
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© 2019 <br />
G. M. Atwater</span></span></span><br />
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<br />G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-40226927250086653432018-10-28T16:00:00.000-07:002019-01-26T09:57:45.368-08:00Pt Pleasant Trial, October 2017<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYq_rsto6ihcRxOtGiTqVJJuPA2P-lLphKiuA2ENaS8O379tTgsPbSnrVIztIWbhMvacRrTyqweZymgkpgXvQdAzi1eyVB6CgIElmQnlHupqRWE_rxjejUSBe3rck3szAZ-r2TisBQpFw/s1600/Nick+Oct+2017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1188" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYq_rsto6ihcRxOtGiTqVJJuPA2P-lLphKiuA2ENaS8O379tTgsPbSnrVIztIWbhMvacRrTyqweZymgkpgXvQdAzi1eyVB6CgIElmQnlHupqRWE_rxjejUSBe3rck3szAZ-r2TisBQpFw/s320/Nick+Oct+2017.jpg" width="237" /></a>Saturday scores from Pt Pleasant. Very happy with Nick today. He was a
very good boy. Looks like we'll be running with the big dogs in the double-lift tomorrow! Life is good. </div>
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Final scores from the Sunday double lift here at Pt. Pleasant. Today was a very good day.</div>
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And who knows, if Nick's handler had not meddled with the second drive panel, we might have saved ourselves 10 points. <span class="_47e3 _5mfr" title="tongue emoticon"></span>;) Truly this was a magical weekend. There is no feeling like the partnership we shared today.</div>
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Thank you, good boy Nick, you are the best partner I could ask for. <span class="_47e3 _5mfr" title="heart emoticon"></span></div>
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<span class="_47e3 _5mfr" title="heart emoticon"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-34244179900439511462017-09-27T17:30:00.000-07:002020-04-21T22:32:49.183-07:00Good night, Josey Wales.Today we said goodbye to a very old friend - our 17 year old kitty,
Josey Wales. His respiration was elevated, he was having trouble eating,
he was losing weight - he was wearing out. It was time. He had one last
good night snoring on our bed, one last nice morning napping in his
favorite patch of sunlight. <br />
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Josey muttered his complaints on the
ride down to the vet, but apparently he was just indignant about the
crate. As soon as I got him out and set a folded towel on the ex<span class="text_exposed_show">am
table for him, he laid down and made himself right at home. That's all
he wanted, the comforts of an old man. He never even noticed the
sedative shot and he went to sleep with his head in my hand.</span><br />
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Josey came to me sometime in late 2000. Some truck driver friends of
ours stopped by the house to drop off this little orange kitten, (heaven
knows where they found him,) saying, "Here, you said you wanted an
orange kitty." They left and Josey stayed. <br />
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He didn't have a
name, of course, but within a day I was mostly calling him, "You little
s**t!" He climbed the curtains, tackled the plants, climbed the ficus,
knocked books off the shelves - in short order, I named this little
outlaw after one of our TV favorites, the outlaw Josey Wales. And he did
his best to live up to his name. <span class="_47e3 _5mfr" title="tongue emoticon"><br /></span><br />
But then my hubby came home from working several weeks away, and Josey
just freaked. He gave my poor hubby a look of absolute horror and shot
off down the hall and under the bed. And that's the way it was for
years. Oh, Josey eventually learned to come out and eat and even slink
around the room when hubby was present, but my little outlaw had
revealed himself as a full fledged scaredy-cat. None of our friends ever
saw him, either!<br />
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Josey was about 8 years old when he finally
decided he would let my husband actually touch him. And then somewhere
over the years, Josey decided drama was just too much work and he almost
became a normal cat. But only almost. He still never went out hunting,
never walked around outside, and indeed, he never got further than 20
feet from any open door. He was a HOUSE cat, dammit, and he reserved his
energies for food and naps, followed by more food and naps.<br />
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And
that was his life. I think it was a good one. He certainly never seemed
to want anything more and he raised 17 years worth of puppies with a paw
of velvet steel. He will be missed ... but he is no longer sick and
fading. And I'd like to think he is over the Rainbow Bridge and reunited
with his one true love, our calico girl, Smudge, who left us some 3
years ago.<br />
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Good night, little old man. Thank you for sharing your life with us.</div>
G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-37444406223759801062017-03-28T10:01:00.000-07:002019-01-26T10:14:06.738-08:00Peanut and Porkchop<br />
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<br />My two new pups. Midge was born January 25th and is out of Claire Burson's Meg and by Paula
Bowden's, formerly Derek Scrimgeour's, Jim. Jim is a son of James
McCloskey's trial dog, Sweep and a grandson of Derek's good Killibrae
Laddie.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZc-BLn1AlIXYoXZcYLfMeEMb6WD-mwKqQKq3cG_OtQKkZ4rft45mmhdl3XWZ95DbIfEOeAalxXHuZ0QdWnhsybP4Z74S2IHGg2-YPtJF-7EHXwDLKM0l0JnAIt4aMR-IHE6nqRSNXDVk/s1600/20170413_112728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZc-BLn1AlIXYoXZcYLfMeEMb6WD-mwKqQKq3cG_OtQKkZ4rft45mmhdl3XWZ95DbIfEOeAalxXHuZ0QdWnhsybP4Z74S2IHGg2-YPtJF-7EHXwDLKM0l0JnAIt4aMR-IHE6nqRSNXDVk/s320/20170413_112728.jpg" width="180" /></a>Ben was born January 27th and is out of a local ranch bitch and by my boy, Nick. I
wasn't aiming to get 2 puppies, but Nick had to be neutered due to
prostatitis, so I took the little boy that grabbed my heart. <br />
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Life as I know it will never be the same ... :)<br />
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<span class="_47e3 _5mfr" title="smile emoticon"></span>G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-78472064939899695832017-01-09T21:34:00.000-08:002017-01-18T21:36:20.506-08:00Gael - Lab ResultsWell. We got the lab results back for Gael. My poor vet is fighting a
nasty cold and killer cough, so I didn't keep her for as many questions
as I might have. But ... the diagnosis has somewhat changed. I can't
quite say the labs made things more clear, but they did *dismiss* the
idea that it was DIC, Which doesn't change the outcome or even how it
started, but it does change how Gael got there. T<span class="text_exposed_show">his is all way over my pay grade, so pardon if I'm not able to explain this clearly.<br /> <br />
The labs mainly seemed to show what's NOT there. No DIC, no toxins, no
sepsis. The liver biopsy divulged the most, and for my medically minded
friends, it reads: <br /> "There is mild to moderate tissue autolysis
affecting the outer most portion of the specimen, with frequent
bacterial rod overgrowth, which extends into the parenchyma. There are
frequent clusters of bacterial rods, without any inflammatory reaction
(postmortem overgrowth) within the parenchyma. The viable parenchyma
features diffuse sinusoidal congestion."<br /> "Interpretation: Mild to
moderate widespread tissue autolysis with postmortem bacterial rod
overgrowth and diffuse sinusoidal congestion." <br /> .<br /> <br /> The
comments following suggested there could be an underlying cause such as
an allergic hypersensitivity to food or inflammatory bowel disease ...
but Gael never showed signs of any kind of upset until her fatal
illness. My vet was a little puzzled, too.<br /> <br /> This kind of brings
us back to my vet's original Dx: Gael ate something - again, who knows
what - that disagreed with her. But the vet says it now appears this
morphed into a massive, aggressive bacterial infection. Gael's white
blood count crashed and then her system had nothing left to fight with.
What the vet originally thought could be DIC was her body shutting down,
her organs bleeding out due to no white blood cells. So, I guess Gael
died of toxic shock.<br /> <br /> Which doesn't really change anything or
alter the manner of her death. All it really does is underscore the
inevitability of it. Gael ate something she shouldn't have and her body,
for whatever reason, couldn't fight off the reaction. Oddly, the vet
did mention Addison's disease, but she didn't seem sure entirely about
that either because, again, Gael never showed clinical signs of any
illness at all, until this.<br /> <br /> So, I dunno. I guess it's time to
let this go. I suppose I'm absolved of guilt by learning there was no
hope, but I'll never feel absolved of responsibility. She was my good
girl and now she's gone. Shit happens.<br /> <br /> Meanwhile, I have 3 dogs
who daily make me smile. Nick and Nell have trial fields to conquer and
miles to run, and Ash is her own funny self. Life goes on. I owe a debt
of gratitude to all of you out there who have offered your sympathy,
condolences and kindnesses. I hope I can return a kindness to you, some
day. In the meantime, hug your dogs for me!</span>G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-43427798310628061542017-01-01T21:26:00.000-08:002017-01-18T21:59:05.558-08:00Gael "La-Roo" Atwater ~ July 25, 2009 - December 30, 2016<span class="_5shl fss"></span><br />
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Gael "La-Roo" Atwater ~ July 25, 2009 - December 30, 2016<br />
<br />
Did you know that I loved you, my bright, wild girl? Did you know the
sun rose in your "ain't this fun?" smile and the stars twinkled in your
shining eyes? Did you know that I loved every hair on your silly,
impulsive, reactive, joyful self and every molecule of your dear body?
Did you know that when I saw you run, a lithe, athletic missil<span class="text_exposed_show">e leaping across the fields and hills with the kind of joyful abandon most never know ... my heart soared with you? <br /> <br />
Did you know that even when I felt sure you communed with faeries and
danced with pixies who whispered you ridiculous things, I still loved
you? Did you know that when you ran out on your huge, hill-encompassing
outrun, racing the wind on the clever paws of a thousand generations of
sheepdogs - and totally missed your sheep - I still loved you? Did you
know how much you taught me, how much you had to show me about learning a
sheepdog's ways? Did you know that no matter what you ever did, whether
we succeeded on the trial field or walked off to try again another day,
I still loved you? <br /> <br /> Do you know, my precious girl, how very, very much you will be missed? Why, why did you have to go?<br /> <br />
My beloved Gael enjoyed a fantastic hike with friends on Wednesday
last. That night she seemed a little "off," but I attributed it to
tiredness and maybe a bit of over-doing-it. Yesterday morning she seemed
oddly stiff and sore, but she was still in good spirits. I left her
home while I went working dogs, figuring she might have tweaked
something amidst her fun and just needed rest and maybe a visit to the
dog chiropractor later.<br /> <br /> This morning she didn't even get out of
bed. The look in her eyes was a decade older than she was. I took her
to the vet first thing. Apparently she had some sort of GI tract
infection, origins unknown. Her heart, lungs, kidneys and liver values
were all good, but her white blood count was catastrophically low. She
also had a fever which spiked at 107 and though they got it down some,
her body could not cope. She died in my arms. The vet will do a
postmortem, hoping for answers. But there is no reason why. There is
only the fact that my silly, fey, beautiful little Gael is gone. I don't
think the other dogs have realized that just yet. <br /> <br /> My friends,
remember to love your furry companions with all your heart. Hold them
close, always. Forgive them their imperfections as they forgive yours,
for dogs are the closest things we'll ever know to God walking on this
earth.</span></div>
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G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-24997250638494391952016-09-21T20:55:00.000-07:002017-01-18T22:43:12.048-08:00Autumn ...<span class="_5shl fss"></span><a class="" href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154460350262456&set=a.10151035370917456.487803.606217455&type=3" rel="theater"></a><br />
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The
light has changed. The shadows are beginning to reach long, skinny
fingers ever further from beneath the trees. The breeze has an edge and
the pinon trees drip pine nuts, pitter-pat, as they have not in three or
four years. The birds and squirrels and I have a quiet competition to
see who gets the most, they in their lofty perches, or me down here on
the ground, picking up what nuts may fall.<br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><br />
Our barn swallows have absconded somewhere else and even the blue jays
have become strangely quiet. This morning I sit in my garden with a cat
and a cup of coffee, watching the flowers grow straggly and threadbare.
I don't mind the turning of the seasons when it comes like this, time
like molasses in the cool sun. Life is good. Peace and love, my friends.</span>G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-75961027758660342462016-09-18T08:00:00.000-07:002017-01-18T22:04:27.936-08:00Post National Sheepdog Finals blues ....I think I have a touch of post-Finals depression. For weeks my whole
focus has been on that one goal and yet it didn't go anything like I
imagined. Hubby keeps telling me if my truck had to break down, at least
it broke down in a place with cell service, I was towed to a garage
that was nominally open on a Sunday, and I had a wonderful friend who
was willing to detour and drive me the rest of the <span class="text_exposed_show">way in. Most of all, I did pick up the pieces and go on to run my dog at Finals for the first time.<br /> <br />
So I do have blessings to count. Of course I kind of wish my run with
Nick had gone better, but any number of other handlers wish the same
thing. I even saw some top hands with good dogs come a-cropper. Finals
is tough.<br /> <br /> I think I'm mostly sad that I could not hold on to
that sense of full-hearted gladness that I was heading out on an epic
road trip to a great adventure. But I lost that while I sat by the side
of an empty road at 7 o'clock in the morning, with help over 2 hours
away and steam rolling out from under the hood. The anxiety, worry and
unexpected costs just kind of built from there. I suppose this means I
need to Cowboy Up!<br /> <br /> Anyhow, I have a young dog to get on with
training and fall is in the air. People are starting to talk about
things like candles, wool sweaters and pumpkin spice. Life is still
good. And I was pretty darn lucky to be at Finals at all. <br /> <br /> A
big thanks to the Strang Ranch and Bridget Strang with all her crew for
putting on a fantastic event. It was a beautiful venue and a gorgeous
field with consistently healthy and challenging sheep. The setout crew
was wonderful, as well as picturesque on horseback, and I can't fault
any of the organization, judging or running of the trial whatsoever.
I'll be back someday! </span>G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-16900878917418951672016-08-10T20:00:00.000-07:002020-04-21T22:32:26.649-07:00First judging assignment - Kelly Hill Sheepdog TrialWell, I'm getting organized for another trial this coming weekend, but
this time as a regular spectator. This past weekend, though ... well,
that was something pretty wonderful. My dear and wise friend, Teresa Yamamoto,
invited me to come judge her Kelly Hill sheepdog trial up there north
of Kettle Falls. Spectacularly beautiful country, wild and remote, and a
trial to match.<br />
<br />
It really was a wond<span class="text_exposed_show">erful
experience. To have the privilege to watch and offer my opinions on the
work of some 38 dog/handler teams was amazing. (And yes, that's a
fairly small trial but my little hobbit brain worked very hard!) I knew
in the abstract what to watch for: gauging influences of the field, the
sheep and weather against whatever the dogs may be doing, maintaining
fairness across all runs, striving for consistency, weighing point
deductions against whatever's happening on the field throughout the day,
etc. etc. etc.<br /> <br /> But honestly, watching that many runs that
intently is a heck of a learning experience. Every run has a lesson to
offer. From the dogs and how they handled the field (a long mowed fetch
after a mostly-blind hill outrun) to the handlers and how they ran their
dogs, there was a lot to learn. So much to evaluate and weigh and
consider, from things I could let slide to things I had to nix as
unacceptable to my idea of good sheep work.<br /> <br /> To my surprise, I
found I honestly enjoyed the whole thing. There's a heck of a lot to
keep track of and I maintained a crib sheet of shorthand-ish notes for
every run. Sue MacDonald
was my course director and did a fabulous job of cracking the whip to
keep things going plus diplomatically offering support if I needed it.
She also showed me a clever new way of keeping notes more efficiently,
in the unlikely event that I ever judge again - super cool! And though I
had to work to keep my focus sharp by Sunday afternoon, I found myself
drawn into the runs keenly enough to make the job enjoyable.<br /> <br />
Overall, I think things went well. I did everything in my power to
maintain consistency across the board and to date, I haven't heard any
complaints. Maybe somebody somewhere is chanting my name over a voodoo
doll, but so far, so good! In fact, though the majority of people up
there were not personally known to me, they were a remarkably good
natured lot. When a nearby thunderstorm necessitated a halt to
proceedings, and when we had to pause again for escaped sheep or moving
sheep up from exhaust, the folks over in the peanut gallery never lost
their senses of humor. That was pretty cool. <br /> <br />
But perhaps the nicest thing of all was this: Kelly Hill was a tough
trial with tricky, challenging sheep and rather variable weather. Dogs
got lost on the outrun, hung up on set out, or outsmarted by runaway
sheep ... and yet virtually every handler ended their run, whether a
retire or a DQ or success, by taking their dogs to the water tank and
offering their partner words of thanks and praise. I think that speaks
very well of the folks out there in the Pacific Northwest, and it
certainly made me even more glad to be offered the chance to lend my
services.<br /> <br /> Many thanks to everyone who helped keep this trial on its wheels, including but not limited to Ron Green,
who judged Friday's Pro Novice, Nursery and Ranch classes, (and who
thus gave me the chance to get my mind situated while acting as his
course director,) Norm and Vickie Close who stepped in countless times
to help in many ways, Jan Staroski my tireless and organized scribe, Sue and George MacDonald for being my course directors and moral support, and especially our amazing, super-human setout crew including, Alison Deilke,
Susan Crocker, Sue McLean, Cam Lefler, (the only person I've ever seen
jog up and down hills in 95 degree heat with a cast iron post pounder
over his shoulder - Semper Fi!) - plus Lee Lumb and Noelle Williams, and
everyone else who braved the heat, hills and wiley sheep to do their
jobs ... and a dozen more people I can't think of right now. Plus Gaynor
Edwards who drove me up to Tea's place and Cam who drove me back to the
airport. It takes a village and my pal Tea gathered an awfully good one
to pull off the (hopefully) First Annual Kelly Hill Sheepdog Trial. <br /> <br /> Thanks, everyone, for all you do. This was a weekend to remember. </span>G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-65045178518407258132016-06-29T17:15:00.001-07:002016-06-29T17:15:34.731-07:00Ireland 2016 ~ After thoughts<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">IRELAND AFTER THOUGHTS</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">So my adventure ends. I'm still not
sure what, exactly, I am to think of Ireland. When I first went to England, I expected
medieval castles, ancient churches, old coach inns, red phone booths and mystical
Neolithic stones. I found all that. When I first went to Scotland, I anticipated
stone cottages, heather and highlands, kilts and sheepdogs and isolated lochs
where sheep grazed next to tumbling, tea-colored streams. I found that, too.<br />
<br />
But after returning to Ireland a second time ... I don't know what I was looking
for. My great-great grandparents immigrated to America about ten years before
the Famine. Everyone to whom I mentioned their surname - Barry - immediately
said," Oh, yes, they're from County Cork." But I don't know where in
Cork, what village or parish or town, or if they were Catholic or Protestant or
what. Did they leave to seek greater religious freedoms in America, or did some
other compulsion drive them to risk all and abandon everything they'd ever
known? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Of course, there is still that idealistic
vision of green Irish hills crisscrossed with stone walls, of musical pubs and
old men on bicycles and whitewashed cottages crowned in thatched roofs standing
along crooked little lanes. Last year, my first full glimpse of "the auld
sod" turned unexpectedly emotional when I stood on the Hill of Tara and
beheld the green, sunlit expanse of Ireland spreading for miles at my feet.
"Mine...," my heart sighed. But as soon as we started driving towards
Galloway ... what the hell? Where were my thatch-roofed cottages? Where were my
quaint little farms? And why were all those big, ugly modern houses taking their
place? I suspect a hazy wish to connect with my Barry roots, or at least somehow
glimpse the Ireland of my forebears' time, colored my expectations and not
finding that left me feeling a little hollow. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">But in reality, I have no way to
know if my great-great grandparents left with sighs of regret or tears of joy. When
reading the history of Ireland, it can appear that often what seems like the
simplest times were actually the most turbulent, with sectarian and religious
divisions played out on a violent stage. The stereotypical view of Ireland
wants to freeze her in amber, in a vision of romantic poverty that may have
never really existed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">On one hand a person could think
Ireland doesn't really value its more distant past. How else to explain ancient
abbeys where locals have been digging up the floors as a graveyard for
generations? Or a forgotten Norman castle among whose ruins modern houses
squat, its only purpose now to limit access to a light house that takes all the
tourist glory. But if one were to take the builders to task, perhaps they'd just
be baffled, saying, "Well, why shouldn't we? Everything is right where
it's stood, we just made better use of the place." </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In another light, it could seem that
a cosmic ax clove Ireland's history between the Famine and everything before
that, and another cleaved time between the Rising of 1916 and the remainder of
the 20<sup>th</sup> century. Perhaps Ireland is so layered in history, vigorous
and dynamic and often still-green, that it's never had the luxury of wallowing
in nostalgia. If an Irishman sings of heroes or battles, you have to listen
close to discern if he's singing about something that happened in 1916, 1816 or
three hundred years ago. The past is alive in Ireland's mind, a nationalism that
builds its own myth and has little need of ruined old castles or haunted abbeys
to keep those tales alive.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Which leaves us, the lost great-grandchildren
of Ireland, possibly a little out of luck if we're looking for a stone to touch
or a hill to climb and claim as our birthright. But maybe that's the point.
Maybe our task is to embrace all of Ireland, with its convoluted history and mosaics
of struggle and rebirth, and heroes who may also be villains, depending on the song.
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Ireland is a complicated place with a
complicated history and a complicated people, a land that reinvents itself
every generation or so. I'm still a little disappointed at the scarcity of
thatch-roofed cottages ... but I've gained a new appreciation for just how well
the Irish have managed to proliferate and prosper in almost every corner of the
globe. There's the old joke that God invented whiskey so the Irish wouldn't
take over the world. But if you look close enough, perhaps they already have. And
I've fallen a little in love with rural southern Ireland. </span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">:)</span></span></div>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">June 14<sup>th</sup> </span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">-
DAY 10. I'm in a hotel in Dublin this evening, taxi booked for the run to the
airport in the morning. We woke up this morning to sun peeking through the
clouds and gorgeous views from our upstairs skylight-window. Oh, Ireland, how sweet
you are in your gowns of patchwork green and sunlight. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Clouds began to move in
as I went out for a walk on the farm lanes while Cel took care of her morning
ablutions. Across the road from our lodgings the local cows marched in a long,
straggling line from their milking shed to pastures beyond. On the other side
of the river I glimpsed another farmer moving his freshly-milked cows up
another lane with the help of a quad bike. I tried to spend a little quality
time in this last while with Ireland, walking one last narrow lane amidst acres
of grain that nodded in the fields not occupied with grazing cows. Among the
hedgerows birds twittered and wild roses wafted their perfume on the breeze.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">I finally headed back to the house
and breakfast. There Cel and I ate with a view of the garden where the sun
briefly warmed the roses and petunias. Breakfast was delicious with all the
fixin's and then it was time to bid the garden and the house with its beautiful
conservatory farewell.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Rain showers punctuated by glimpses
of sun escorted us northeast towards Dublin, but even now we weren't in any
hurry to return the press of civilization. Celebsul opted to shift off onto the
N81 and so we wended our way through little towns and rolling green fields. At
Blessington heavier storms began oozing in from the sea and we stopped there for
lunch, picking a traditional-looking pub and restaurant. There Cel introduced
me to the wonders of chicken pate - actually very yummy when served with toast
and a garnish of some kind of jam. I ate my fill, that's for sure! Then as the
rain moved in again, we moved on.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">At last we arrived in Dublin,
maneuvering our way around the M50 highway that circled the city to find our
lodgings at the Skylon Best Western Hotel. Let's just say that website photos
may not be quite accurate. The place looked a bit tatty and *tiny,* tucked
between taller buildings and we in fact missed it on the first pass. They had a
parking garage but their pay-and-display kiosk was broken so we got to park for
free. But the desk people were nice and a young man cheerfully hauled our
luggage from the car to our room. The room was surprisingly spacious, more than
enough room for the two of us and I reckoned it would do.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Once freshened up, Celebsul and I
went into the city center on the bus and submerged into the boiling busy-ness
that is Dublin. It's big, boisterous, cosmopolitan and avant-garde, the old
dragged bodily forward in time by the new. On its busy streets I saw more
varieties of human in the space of three hours than I normally see in a year.
This city bustles, strides, teems, honks and lurches down narrow streets in
two-story buses, and between it all whisk the derring-do on bicycles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We took a brief, lovely respite from
the throng by touring Christchurch Cathedral. It is indeed a bastion of peace
and the keeper many tales. We explored it thoroughly, paid our respects to
whatever Presence lingers there and even visited the historic catacombs under
the building. Here amongst the displays of relics and shadowy but nonetheless
ornate stone memorials to noblemen long forgotten, I was more than a little
amused to find a gift shop down in those dark, stony bowels. I wondered just
how much business the little gal minding the shop actually got. Back up in the
waking world, I took a look at the black stone effigy of Strongbow and marveled
at the stained glass windows. Then out we fared into the aged streets once
more.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We rambled through a few cramped
little shops and found a cozy little nook for supper, where besides yummy
sandwiches they kept a mouth-watering display of baked goods. We resisted the
temptation, however, and once fed we resumed our wanderings. Funny how just
coming at the city from another angle makes it seem new all over again. I was
here a year ago and yet the simple fact of a different hotel and a different bus
route gave me a slightly disjointed sense of finding things strange and
familiar all at once.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Dublin is too much city for me to
stand for very long, but perhaps she is a fitting simile for Ireland today: a
place with an ancient and storied past, but in far too much of a busy hurry
reaching the future to fuss much about things that are gone. Except the Rising
of 1916. On every lamp post and corner it seemed I saw banners or signs
commemorating the century since Irish patriots - or perhaps Irish zealots,
depending on who's telling the story - blasted their ill-fated way into history
and perhaps carved a path towards Irish independence. One never loses track of
the fact that one is, unequivocally, in Ireland.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Finally the hour began to grow late
and we caught a bus back to our hotel. One more morning, one more long flight
home and the great adventure is over. Thanks, Celebsul, my friend of many
adventures, for coming with me on this incomparable journey through the land of
my forefathers! Slainte!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://a-wordsmith.blogspot.com/2016/06/ireland-2016-after-thoughts.html">TO CLOSING THOUGHTS. </a></span></div>
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<br />G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-36150176981317087492016-06-28T17:18:00.000-07:002016-06-29T15:45:55.418-07:00 Ireland - June 2016 - Part 9<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">June 13<sup>th</sup> </span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">-
DAY 9. Wow, it rained HARD all night. So hard the pounding on the roof woke us
a couple of times. When we got up, I looked out the window to see heavy fog
draped across the hills. But the time we headed downstairs the fog began to
melt and a damp, dripping green world appeared. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Breakfast here was marvelous, the
full Irish along with juices and cereal and jams. Our table mates were a
retired couple from Oklahoma just beginning their Irish holiday and I found it
a little strange to hear such thick American accents. I wondered if this was
their first trip to the British Isles, as the lady kept remarking on how
incredible she found it that people lived and raised a family in a house this
old. Granted, Oklahoma doesn't have anything built by white men much prior to
the mid-1800s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>;)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They seemed like nice folks, though, easy
company over breakfast and we enjoyed every delicious bite. So the fairy tale
ended as we bid our host farewell, she inquiring after our plans for the day
and bidding us safe travels. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Our first destination was another
local spot, the natural caverns of Dunmore Cave, in Gaelic called Dearc-Fearna.
Located out in vibrantly green rolling countryside, the visitor center told a
tale of both natural and human history. The cave itself of course was formed
over millions of years, the limestone eroding over time until a ceiling
collapse opened it to human discovery. Human use and occupation may date back
thousands of years, as the cave has long been known as one of "the darkest
places in Ireland." But of note is a mention in the Irish Annals that
Vikings massacred a thousand people here in 928 AD. Because I am just geek
enough to look it up, here it is: <br />
<br />
<i>M928.9 pg 624-25<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</i></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Godfrey, grandson of Imhar, with the
foreigners of Ath-cliath, demolished and plundered Dearc Fearna, where one
thousand persons were killed in this year, as is stated in this quatrain:</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nine hundred years without sorrow,
twenty-eight, it has been proved,</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since Christ came to our relief, to
the plundering of Dearc-Fearna.</i><br />
<br />
In 1869, an archaeological exploration by a Dr. Arthur Wynn Foot and 2
companions revealed large quantities of human bones in the cave which were
removed, catalogued and bequeathed to the Royal Society of Antiquaries of
Ireland, at which time the truth of the Annals' gristly tale became apparent.
It's now believed that the victims were locals who tried to hide from the
Viking raiders in the cave's deep fastness, but the Vikings pursued, killing
men, capturing children and setting fires which filled the caverns in smoke,
asphyxiating all who remained hidden within. (Dr. Foot's report to the Society,
which I found online via Wikipedia's page on Dunmore, mentions explorations in
1748, 1771 and 1801 which also discovered quantities of human bones in one
particular part of the cave system.) 1999, a cave guide discovered a horde of
silver and bronze artifacts dated to 970 AD.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Anyhow, when we got there a gaggle
of school children were inside the visitor center, merry as magpies even if
well-behaved. For a moment we despaired of risking a guided tour, but the children
were on their way out. So, we paid our entry fee, watched the 10 minute video
and then joined our guide to descend into the earth. The cave indeed presents
an ominous appearance, its only approach a steep slope of muddy stones thick
with bracken and weeds that descends into a dark maw in the earth. The cliff
walls framing our descent are also dense with bracken and small trees and as we
trudged down the long metal stairs into ever-chillier air, we were harangued by
the calls of countless crows and rooks. At the bottom of the steps, we looked
back up at a circle of distant sunlight from our place in the underworld.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The cave itself isn't the biggest or
even the most fancy I've seen, but the formations were intriguing and the tour
informative. Our guide, whose name sadly escapes me, was polished and amusing
in his talks as he described both what we were seeing and what had gone on down
there over the centuries. He took special pains to point out the broken stub of
a once-grand column of fluted stone. Decades before there were any safeguards
on this place, some dimwit decided he wanted to remove the column for his own
display - and used dynamite to break it loose for removal. Of course all that
survived was the sheered stub hanging from the ceiling. It would rebuild, he
said, if we wanted to come back a million years or so. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">I tend to think of limestone as
being a light-colored stone, but this cave was pretty dark even as caves go. Nonetheless,
there were places of striped or splashed color or paler hues, si I guess
minerals in whatever layers above lent their colors to water trickling down
over the millennia. The formations themselves fascinated me as caves always do,
with the notion that stone had somehow been poured and dribbled and spilled
until it formed fantastical shapes and cast bizarre shadows that piqued the
imagination. Of course our guide cut off the lights for several seconds so we
could listen to the dripping silence of eternity. I found myself imagining the
fearful breathing of those tragic souls 900 years ago who died here in the
dark.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Once outside, it seemed we had
missed a little rain shower but the sun shone as we sat in the car to study our
map. Next on our itinerary for today: Kells Priory below Kilkenny. Another
pretty drive down winding roads and rolling hills and farms. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The village of
Kells was no bigger than a wink but we found the priory on the other side of
little river. They had a nice small car park with a bit of odd modern art and a
plaque extoling village attractions. We saw a lady with her maybe-12-year-old
son, but they disappeared and we had the place to ourselves. Through a little
gate and there down a slopping sheep pasture ... wow. Just wow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Kells Priory must be seen to be
believed, a great sprawl of stone walls and silence nearly in the middle of
nowhere, tucked amidst rolling green hills and farmland. As we walked down
through a large flock of sheep in their overgrown, tattered winter gowns, it
was just us and eight hundred years of history. These ruins are a majestic,
huge place and we found nobody there. Well, discounting two workmen who showed
up but never got out of their vehicle. The priory is entirely enclosed in a set
of walls some twenty feet high, the whole place spread across three or four
open acres. A plaque theorizes that the largest enclosed area was used to keep
and graze the priory's livestock in times of trouble. Today, the gate is open
for local sheep to come and go at will. <br />
<br />
The priory proper is much ruined save for the outer wall and several towers,
but there was safety fencing barring a couple places and scaffolding on a
couple more where evidently repairs are ongoing. One inner tower had been
restored enough to boast glass in a few windows but the door was locked.
Possibly they kept things in there to further their work. Another little barred
room looked like it would become an interpretive center, with signage and a
collection of old gravestones set on display. The expanse of ruins offered much
to the imagination, with the shapes of the buildings and walkways still framed
in broken walls, stumps of columns and windows and archways opening to the sky.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Celebsul and I wandered the place
for a good long while, pouring over the ruins and finding a tiny barred
courtyard or roofless room with shelves *full* of broken, carved stone
ornamentation. The world's biggest jigsaw puzzles waiting for placement?
Another nook held a small graveyard whose stones were mostly illegible but in
style suggested the mid-1700s to early 1800s. Someone had brushed a little
white chalk or talc on a couple of the stones for ease of reading, which I
thought a clever and harmless idea.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Then Cel chanced upon the crowning
wonder of that place: a plain steel plaque mounted on a post overlooking the
priory ruins, and on it was inscribed a poem. The poem at first glance seemed
to have little do with the priory as it was, but the words were so wonderful
that I have to share them here:<br />
<br />
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Garden's Grumble<br />
<br />
It is January.<br />
Ice-shards in hoofprints. The dark way of silence.<br />
Light lying down on the straw-coloured grasses.<br />
We are cold and ill-tempered but dinner is pigs cheeks. </i></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">In the church they are eating the body of God.<br />
<br />
February's Brigit's with spring round the corner<br />
and hard on the spring comes the sweet smell of summer,</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">three o'clock matins then dawn wild with birdsong</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">and I'm in the garden, shape-changed to a blackbird</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">grubbing in the body of God.</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">~ Kerry Hardie</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">In those spare lines, I gazed down a
vast tunnel of years to the humanity of the history here, to ordinary people
who lived and breathed and felt things even as we do. It was a perfect moment
in a nearly-perfect spot and I'm ever so glad we found it. Celebsul and I each
found our own ways out of that sacred place, walking through gentle sheep who
trod the same paths their many-times grandmothers did long ago.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We retraced our steps back into the
village where an old mill stood, now housing a shop of local crafts. A restored
millwheel turned in the race in a steady, melodic thumping, while a many-arched
bridge carried the road above the stream's broad spill. In the millhouse, a
lovely Irish girl sat blocking starched fabric hats, dainty, pretty things
suitable for tea or any other excuse. She presided over a wonderful collection
of locally-made things, from knit caps to carved wood to pottery. We nosed
around a bit and chatted with her, and I came away with a small, pretty
hand-turned wooden bowl. Plus Cel and I each just had to buy a clever little
"fairy door" as whimsies to stick to a baseboard somewhere at home.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Finally we returned to the road, rolling
on through green hills, fields and little villages. We stopped for lunch in
Carrick-on-Suir, a bustling town where we just chanced to find a café serving
the nicest roast beef.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then southward
again down the R697, beautiful scenery gliding past our windows as the weather
again turned showery, swathes of grey sweeping tall, rugged hills between
emergences of rather soggy sunlight. We turned off briefly when a sign
advertised a waterfall, but the track quickly turned narrow and we opted to go
back. No more reversing down tiny one-lane paths for us! Above Dungarvan we
bent northward again on the R672, following the back side of the hills we had
followed south - the Comeragh and Monavullagh mountains, according to the map.
Beautiful, rural with some forested areas between farmlands - what a lovely country.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Below Clonmell, we proceeded to get
completely lost as soon as we left the R-road. We knew more or less where this
night's lodgings must be, but the signs we saw just said "Glasha
Accomodations" and the tiny roads wandered everywhere, so we soon found
ourselves out amongst the grain fields and dairy cows. Finally a solitary
yellow building appeared, advertising itself as "J Lonergan Wind and
Spirits," apparently a local pub. Cel went in to ask directions and it
turns out we were only a few hundred yards off target.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Across a humpbacked bridge and there we found
it, Glasha Farmhouse. </span><br />
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="line number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="page number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of authorities"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="macro"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="toa heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Wow. The butler or somebody is going
to figure out I'm a lowly blue-collar imposter and toss me back out the door,
right? But no, when we stepped inside, a nice lady greeted us and showed us up
to our room. And I do mean UP! The house looks like it's only two stories high
but somehow we clambered three and at the top of the final, very steep flight,
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The beds had more pillows than any
four people could use, too! I definitely looked forward to a good night's sleep
here. Thankfully a nice young man schlepped our luggage up that alpine-esque
staircase. Across the hills, low gray clouds dragged skirts of rain but we toddled
out once more to scrounge a few nibbles in the village and then we returned to
make ourselves comfortable in the Glasha House's most wonderful feature: a
lovely glass conservatory between the lounge/living room and the garden. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">This was pure indulgence, a
beautiful, bright room with flower gardens and a fountain just outside and the
door open while distant storms blew harmlessly past. Four other
guests of the house joined us, Americans who were in Ireland for a conference
but who had a couple days of sight-seeing to do, first. We ended up having a
very nice visit, chatting over evening cocktails about this and that and nothing to upset the
digestion. It takes a long time for evening to fall at that latitude, but at
last twilight came to the beautiful glass room and we all toddled off to bed.</span></div>
<br /><a href="http://a-wordsmith.blogspot.com/2016/06/ireland-june-2016-part-10.html">TO PART TEN</a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>
G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-13988838615012140982016-06-28T17:16:00.000-07:002016-06-28T17:43:50.430-07:00 Ireland - June 2016 - Part 8<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">June 12<sup>th</sup></span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">
- DAY 8. We woke up to rain-washed, mostly-blue skies, having slept like a pair
of stones. Even with a window open for fresh air and the whisper of the rain,
the silence of the house had been blessedly absolute. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeZJlN8wRWdoy2LQYw4A_M9pRy2DLHceL2fEk9kbC1jtz6zawW_3CJYTRT2beBnxVJfAIhq9QE3Tif1itIbhh0U1HiKypPsK17IFxn9DUZ20d0UX9jPWjUAXIVnLAKxfuGhpKbqPA3KSE/s1600/IMG_2843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeZJlN8wRWdoy2LQYw4A_M9pRy2DLHceL2fEk9kbC1jtz6zawW_3CJYTRT2beBnxVJfAIhq9QE3Tif1itIbhh0U1HiKypPsK17IFxn9DUZ20d0UX9jPWjUAXIVnLAKxfuGhpKbqPA3KSE/s320/IMG_2843.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">When we came downstairs
we found a breakfast fit for nobility. The dining room was lovely, the picture
of country elegance with its china and fixtures and the breakfast was both
lovely and tasty. Besides sampling the side table with cereals, fresh fruits, juices,
yogurt and a very tasty homemade muesli (basically a cross between cereal and
granola,) I had smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. This did serve to remind me that
while I adore salmon, the smoked salmon of the British Isles is not the same as
our American smoke-cured salmon, instead being seemingly uncooked, a little
like smoky sushi. So, I wasn't nuts about the texture but that's not the fault
of the kitchen or our hosts. The lady of the house, Ann, again was gracious as if
seeing off the Duchess of Canterbury and saw us out as we went on our way.<br />
<br />
From there we set a course for one of Ireland's marvels, Hook Lighthouse. This
is the world's oldest continually operating lighthouse, built about 1340.
Originally it was operated by a community of monks and has a door at the base
marked as a chapel. The technology has obviously changed and the people running
it, but never the light house's purpose. Unlike other lighthouses, this one is
not perched out on some wind-blasted cliff. Rather, Hook Lighthouse quite
accessible, posted out on a long, flat finger of land with houses, tiny
villages and little farms along the way. (I didn't realize John F. Kennedy's
family came from that area: there's a Kenney Homestead and a JFK Arboretum also
out there.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The Hook Lighthouse is a beautiful
structure, imposing and solid in its crisp black white paint, the tallest thing
for miles, and the equally well-kept light keepers' houses are today a café and
information center. Making the place even more family-friendly, there's a broad
lawn out front that's scattered with various toys, from rubber balls to rubber
bouncy ponies to stacks of building blocks. I thought that was really pretty
wonderful!<br />
<br />
Anyhow, rather than take the guided tour up the tower - I think we were both
still twitching from the guided tour at Muckross - we just ambled around the
grounds. Celebsul finally tired of having the hair blown off her head, but I
clambered up on the walkway (where I watched a pair of idiot kids scramble out
on the rocks right to the thunderous waters' edge) and then wandered along the
shore. Green grass and pink tufts of sea thrift flowers grew right up to the ocean's
marge, but there the soil dropped off to expose the raw bones of Ireland,
peeled clean by the ever-pounding sea. The bedrock below thrust out into the
sea in cracked, fissured sheets upon which the waves broke in spumes of white, turquoise
and white. Every wave, every storm tears further at the island's flesh and
photos in the visitor center showed storm damage to the tower itself. I thought
of back in Strongbow's day, 800 years ago, when the first stones were set to
build this lighthouse, and wondered how far out the original shoreline once
stood. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Before I left, I met a sweet Irish
grandmother on holiday with her husband and her two Sheltie dogs. In the course
of our conversation, she assured me that the best routes for tourist-free
travel were the roads with grass growing up between the tracks. I assured her
we had already seen plenty of those! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Moving inland then, we made our way
through gently rolling hills and fields to the pretty village of Inistioge,
with its sleepy river, multi-arched bridge and a little riverside park. We
stopped there for lunch at the charming Old Schoolhouse Café and made our way
to the Woodstock House & Gardens. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">What a sweet and lovely country, so green
and lush and gentle to the eye. Here were a grand Victorian gardens, a vast
sweep of beautifully planned lawns, paths, woodland avenues and formal gardens,
complete with a conservatory-turned-tea-house. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Quite a few people wandered the
grounds, but the place was so big and cleverly arranged that I had no sense of
crowding. There were even thickets of bamboo with little trails and grottos in
which children could - and did - have their own imaginary adventures. The
once-grand house, however, stood as a ruined and dangerous shell, first occupied
and then burned by English "Black & Tans" government troops
during the Troubles in 1922. A weathered plaque on the grounds showed an old
photo of the house as she once stood, a serene and lovely place.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We didn't stay as long as we might
have, though, as the weather was becoming highly changeable. Twice sudden
showers drove us to seek shelter under the trees as thunderstorms, the first
I've ever heard in the British Isles, rumbled past. After we left, we could see
fat thunderstorms rolling up from the sea, soon looking for all the world like
Floridian tropical. We ran into two intense cloudbursts - or maybe the same one
twice - that pounded so hard we pulled over because Cel couldn't see the road!
Then the sun would come out again and we'd watch the black storms marching off
somewhere else. <br />
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The afternoon found us free at last of storms as we reached the Springview
House B&B, just outside Urlingford above Kilkenny. A note on the door
advised us that the mistress of the house was out on the farm and would be back
within 20 minutes. So we waited and watched shiny black Angus cattle graze in
the pasture out front. Among them sauntered a young bull who pawed the earth
and gave us a narrow gaze. The proprietress, when she arrived, was rather a
character, talkative, interrogative and immediately hospitable, fetching tea
and cakes including a loaf of the most sublime lemon cake I've ever tasted, to
refresh us from our travels even though it was 5 in the evening. Her very tall,
lean husband popped in a time or two to make himself known, as well. They said
they had primarily dairy cows and milked them, but kept a few beef cows as
well. <br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">I loved the place at first sight, a
gorgeous old house with doors and hallways everywhere, filled with antique
china and beautiful things. She told us that the house had been built in 1760
and it and the farm had been in her husband's family since 1916. They'd been
renovating the house since they were married in 1976. In my view, the
picturesque beauty of the house and its furnishings were proof of their
endeavor's success. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Done with tea and cakes, however
reluctantly, (oh, that lemon cake!) we found our room up a tight, spiral
staircase and at the end of the hall, tucked away beneath the eves. It looked
like something from a Victorian fairy tale with its sloping ceilings, pretty
linens and green fields just out the windows. And for me, the cozy antique
ambiance reminded me happily of my friend Viv Billingham Parke's cottage on the
Scottish Borders. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Once unpacked, our hostess informed
us they would be out for a few hours but made sure we had our key. So, we
toddled up the road a little ways to take in a local marvel, Kilcooley Abbey. Finding
the place took a speck of doing as signage was small and not easily spotted. A
forbiddingly tall stone wall barred one side of the road until finally we came
to a bend where a locked wrought iron gate and No Trespassing sign informed us
that the Kilcooley Estate was closed to visitors. However, the road bent
sharply into a little lane where another sign pointed the way to the abbey and
"New Church. We parked there at the road's bend and started walking.<br />
<br />
Within yards we came to a country church whose graveyard dated back to the
mid-1800s. Just beyond that, on the other side of the lane, stood the partial
ruins of what appeared to be an even older church, with a few oversized gravestones
perhaps to the early 1700s. The oddest thing was, however, a curious stone
pyramid, perhaps 25 feet tall and obviously of some age, that stood right up
against the ruins of the old church! No clue what that might be about or who
put it there, but it certainly didn't look like any Christian thing! Anyhow, a
little further down the tree-shaded path we came to a pasture gate and there
beyond waited Kilcooley Abbey.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Wow. Once again the best place was
the most overlooked. Though not as large as Dunbrody, I thought Kilcooley just
as majestic. It too stood out in an empty pasture, ignored by the few locals
who passed by on bikes or jogging. Here the gate stood open with only a metal plaque
to tell of its history. Kilcooley had also been converted to a dwelling house
in the late 1600s, but unlike Tintern, I found the renovations impossible to
discern. Instead, remarkable stone carvings and ornately graven stone tombs
adorned every wall and nook, nearly untouched by time, and the whole place lay hushed
as if time had simply slipped off into some distant, meaningless place. Knights
and nobles lay beneath those stones, their histories now whispers on the
breeze.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Nearby stood an odd beehive-shaped
stone building, guessed by some to have been a medieval dovecote. Whatever it
once was, now daisies and other wildflowers grow between cracks in the stones.
Just as curiously, through the trees we could see a much-dilapidated great house,
its walls devoid of paint and its windows empty and dark. If that was the house
of the Kilcooley Estate, it looked to me that little restoration or even
maintenance work is being done and the once-noble house is sinking into decay.
Sad.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Finally, with the light beginning to
fade, Celebsul pried me from my musings and we headed back. We grabbed a few
snacks at a local market for our supper and then sat at a window of the dining
room downstairs to catch up on emails and relax. When our hosts returned home,
it had just begun to rain amidst a soft Irish twilight and we clambered
upstairs to bed. At a gate just below our window, Himself the young bull stood
and sang us the song of his people.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /><a href="http://a-wordsmith.blogspot.com/2016/06/ireland-june-2016-part-9.html">TO PA<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">RT</span> NINE</a></span></div>
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G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-34760792373497617952016-06-28T17:15:00.000-07:002016-06-28T17:39:24.797-07:00 Ireland - June 2016 - Part 7<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">June 11<sup>th</sup></span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">
- DAY 7. Sunshine this morning! So exciting to look out and see sun on the
green fields across our little bay! Today we would be checking out and moving
on, so while Celebsul took her morning bath, I set out for one last meander
around Castle Townshend. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">There's a hill just above our cottage and the main
house with the church at one and a walking path to the top. In times past, the
family of the great house had built a couple stone follies, one called Swift
Tower and the other Brian's Fort. As I tramped a mowed path amongst overgrown
ivy and old trees to the bit of sunny meadow on top, I pictured Victorian
ladies in their summer gowns going up to have a picnic, or perhaps enjoy a
little afternoon flirtation with their gentlemen suitors. Trees blocked most of
the view but there was one space where I could see across the inlet to boats at
anchor and an ivy-covered medieval tower. Meanwhile the neighboring cows grazed
in the sunshine and ignored me altogether.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Bidding Castletownshend farewell, we took the N71 in the other direction, making
a quick stop at Bandon before heading catching the N25 for points northeast.
Through the broad, beautiful harbor of Dungarvan to the gentle green country
near Dun Ross we passed, and there turned south. Once again we gravitated to
the sea, passing signs to the John F Kennedy Family Homestead. Our first
destination today was Dunbrody Abbey below New Ross near Arthurstown. <br />
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Wow, what a find. Plunked in the middle of some cow pasture, the abbey sprawled
in ruined splendor, like something from a movie. And indeed, I saw mention that
some filming had been done there. Best of all, once we figured out admittance
and got a key to open the gate, we saw nobody there. Tourists instead
congregated at the other ruins of ____ where they had a maze for kids to play
in, a popular spot judging by the squeals of laughter wafting over the wall. We
left them to their noise and set out down the long path, the ruins waiting
silent and peaceful and holy. <br />
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It truly was magnificent. A herd of Holstein weaner calves dozed in the warm
sun while crows and rooks wheeled above the broken walls. Once inside the
wrought iron gate, soaring arches bent high overhead while ornately carved
stone windows opened to empty blue sky. Wildflowers found niches in the
broken-jawed walls and gangs of crows wheeled raucously above. It was a place
of such perfect peace, warm and holy and kind.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Then in the most wonderful chance of timing and location that I may have ever
known, I saw striding out the long lane to the abbey ... a monk. I mean a real,
genuine monk dressed in full habit: long grey robes, a beaded cross at his belt
and sandals with socks on his feet. He was a big man, too, well over six feet
and solidly built, wearing a big gray beard. I spoke to him and he replied
pleasantly, but Celebsul and I stayed out of his way. We soon left him there
among the ghosts and left him to his musings in that holy place. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Our next stop was nearby Tintern
Abbey, named after the majestic Tintern Abbey in Wales that I fell in love with
some years ago. We found this Tintern to be a smaller and a much lesser place,
once-holy ground that had been converted to a house in the 1600s. It now stands
in a curious state of preservation, halfway between living quarters and
monastic ruin. The remaining tower held interesting displays and we took tea at
the shop downstairs. But there were quite a number of people and children
about, so it held not at all the reverent hush of Dunbrody.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">From there we headed out to our lodgings for the
night at Glendine House B<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">&</span>B of Arthurstown. </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="http://glendinehouse.com/">http://glendinehouse.com/</a> </span> A Georgian manor just on the
edge of town, along with a garden and broad lawns they had an enclosure of pet
deer and another of Highland cows. This place was definitely a long step up from our
self-catered cottage. The owner/hostess, Ann Crosbie, greeted us graciously and when we saw our
room - wow. I felt positively noble! Once settled in, we asked about places for
dinner and she told us about a local pub conveniently named The Local. She
drove us there and told us we could either walk back or call for a lift. <br />
<br />
The Local was a curious little place tucked away up a lane behind the Dunbrody Country
House Hotel. The pub appeared to have been built in a farmer's stable or
machine shed. One end of the room still had the original sliding door that once
led out into the barnyard - and out the back windows was still parked farm
equipment! I'd be curious to know if the proprietor leased the place or of an
enterprising farmer simply diversified. Anyhow, it seemed well-populated and
the food smelled good. The menu was basic but my fish and chips came wrapped in
newsprint paper, like it should be, and the portions were HUGE. Celebsul had a
burger as I recall, but at any rate, it was filling and satisfying and a good
end to our day. <br />
<br />
We walked back to Glendine House under gray skies and after sorting out the
password (or lack thereof) for the house internet, we tucked ourselves in for
the night. As we each had a nightcap the rain began to fall and we drifted off
to the whisper of pouring rain outside.<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidpfuJC8lPouCJqq7YqOnzq6p_yDGCKdZJDDsjP-XPb0k8VjHW3pGyPyA7D9dC3ztyOoDosJXLdwxPTLSOk1GoToKqhkyvAVJP29RmY34eHMfNRyz91Fhyphenhyphensie0PWecmHtXZQIREogdnHM/s1600/IMG_2841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidpfuJC8lPouCJqq7YqOnzq6p_yDGCKdZJDDsjP-XPb0k8VjHW3pGyPyA7D9dC3ztyOoDosJXLdwxPTLSOk1GoToKqhkyvAVJP29RmY34eHMfNRyz91Fhyphenhyphensie0PWecmHtXZQIREogdnHM/s400/IMG_2841.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /><a href="http://a-wordsmith.blogspot.com/2016/06/ireland-june-2016-part-8.html"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">TO PART EIGHT</span></a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">June 10<sup>th</sup></span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">
- DAY 6. The guide books all talk of the Ring of Kerry or the Dingle Peninsula
and must-see places to drive, but so far we've had happy success off the
most-beaten paths. Thus, today's adventure was an outing to another lesser-known
spot: Sheep Head Peninsula. It had rained gently all night and we saw scattered
showers here and there along our way, but the weather was not bad at all. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Once
we turned off the N71 we found ourselves following a quiet country road with
only random traffic. A fork in the road pointed a route to our right named The
Goat's Path: we judged that might not be in our best interests and continued
on. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We could only guess that locals did
their shopping in Bantry as we saw little in the way of amenities. We did find one
tiny shop that, judging by its signage, acted as a grocery store, restaurant,
wine bar and post office all in one - and they also had a single petrol pump
out front. Getting into that took some doing simply because the woman at the
pump and the woman minding the shop were deep in conversation. Their chat
shifted position several times, going from both of them standing outside the
shop to the one woman opening her car door, to the one sitting in the car with
the door open, and THEN closing the car door to chat through the open window a
little more. In each event, they glanced at us, knowing full well that we
waited to use the pump. But shortly before Celebsul and I blew a brain gasket,
the ladies bid each other a cheery farewell and cleared the pump for our use.
The lady in the shop was perfectly lovely when I went in to pay for our fuel,
so I can only say that Ireland time strikes again. ;)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">From there we followed a tiny road that notably featured a spot for passenger
coaches to turn around. On it wandered along some prehistoric sheep path down an
ever-narrowing spit of land, until about the time we wondered if we should just
turn back, we found a tiny visitor center/tea house road's end. Inside we
learned that the Sheep's Head way was a popular walking destination, with
trails leading all over the peninsula and over its mountainous spine. We saw a
trail out to the lighthouse, but we reckoned that a little more suited for
mountain goats than us. We had a piece of their famous pie and some tea, then
headed back - and not a moment too soon, as other tourists appeared seeking a
place to park. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The drive back towards civilization
proved even more adventurous then the drive in, the road becoming nothing more
than barely-paved twin tire tracks with grass growing in the center that
clambered along the peninsula's northern coastline. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We met no one: evidently
more savvy vacationers returned the same way we'd come in. Far across the bay I
could just see the Beara Peninsula beneath a crown of puffy clouds, but
Celebsul kept her eyes on the ever-twisting road. It was beautiful out there,
wild and empty, with walking trails marked pointing up into steep hills marked
only by a few patches of gorse. We finally began to see the occasional house or
cottage and guessed that these were folks who didn't much care for neighbors.<br />
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Finally, at last, we regained proper pavement and once back on the N71, we
headed for the Glengarrif Nature Reserve, where Celebsul had read they had some
nice (read, non-mountain goat) walking paths.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We found the sign to the reserve easily enough, but then it seemed
rather vague as to where the actual spot might be. Once again we found
ourselves driving on tiny, twisting roads - this time amidst deep woods -
looking for some kind of visitor center. Eventually we came full circle and
realized there was no formal headquarters or interpretive center, there was
just a tiny office-like cottage and a couple parking areas. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">So, we parked the car and set out to
enjoy some nature. It really was nice out there, forested, hushed and green and
we found ourselves on their Big Meadow loop trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were a very few folks also out there
but for the most part, we had the trail to ourselves. The woods varied from
deep conifers to evergreens to thickets of birch or stands of enormous pink
rhododendrons. Birds sang and bees buzzed and I found it so very peaceful. At
some point it dawned on me that we really had no idea where we were in those
woods, with few signs and no visible landmarks, or how far the trail might go,
but eventually we saw the big meadow the trail was named for. We were closer to
the road by then and began to see more people walking. Some enormous old oaks
framed one edge of the meadow and I wondered what stories they could tell of
people who had passed there in ages past. At one point the trail passed down a
long tunnel of green and I could feel the trees' cool breath on my face. Ultimately
we did a 3.5 km walk (about 2.17 miles) and I felt comfortably tired and much
restored when we finally got back to the car and headed back to our little
cottage by the sea.</span></div>
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<br /><a href="http://a-wordsmith.blogspot.com/2016/06/ireland-june-2016-part-7.html">TO PART SEVEN</a><br /></div>
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G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-192333082737593122016-06-28T17:13:00.000-07:002016-06-28T17:36:25.058-07:00Ireland - June 2016 - Part 5<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">June 9<sup>th</sup></span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">
- DAY 5. We decided on staying closer to home and just meandering about
exploring local sights. First we went into Skibbereen where we decided to try
breakfast in the Church Restaurant. In keeping with Ireland's apparent penchant
for making the old new, this was a 1830s Methodist church that had gone out of
use about 1993 and was gutted by fire in 1996. Since then it had been purchased
and re-purposed as a restaurant whose fixtures included various historical
pieces, such as old alter rails and an antique staircase. The place was very
nice and the food good, but I had to wonder if we ate our traditional Irish
breakfasts above the lost graves of forgotten church goers ...<br />
<br />
After that, we briefly visited the Skibbereen historical center dedicated to
the history of the Famine's terrible impact on the Cork region. However, the
center was quite small, the displays taking just a single room, and we left as
a tour bus full of pensioners came in. Our next stop was, at least to me, a
more palpable and poignant remembrance of the human toll: the mass Famine gravesites
at Abbeystrowe. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">This is the site of a now- vanished 13<sup>th</sup> century
Cistercian abbey, long since used as a graveyard. Among the scattering of aged
and modern stones, there was but a single, newish marker for the 9,000+ souls
buried here, the mass graves themselves marked only as a broad greensward that
bore the faint indentations of big rectangular shapes. I stood there a time and
tried to imagine what sort of holes, how deep they must have been and how
hideous, to accommodate so many human bodies in what was actually a fairly
small space. Perhaps I'm blessed that my imagination could not conceive it and
I left that place of ghosts and untold stories with my peace of mind intact.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">From there we just wandered along
the coast and little roads south of Skibbereen, seeing few people beyond random
locals and the occasional ubiquitous farm tractor. Again the country rose as a
high, rolling plateau with the broad sweep of sea to the south. Sometimes the
road dipped down to little stony beaches or a tiny village, then up again into
hedgerows and fields. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">At one point we spotted a strange, lone tower and we
stopped to give it a look. The map called the area Fort Hill, but we could find
no indication of its history. Celebsul reckoned that most likely it was a
Victorian folly, built to resemble a greater antiquity but itself of little
more purpose than whimsy. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">It was a strange thing, though, standing out there
with no manor house nearby to account for its presence. I scared some Holstein
heifers grazing there when I balanced atop an overgrown stone wall to get a
couple photos. The heifers and a few crows seemed like the only ones who
noticed us up there and a few hundred yards on, the road petered to an end with
its destination some farmer's homestead. We turned around and were met by a
local with a startled look on his face, who nonetheless backed up to give us
room to pass. We had to wonder if maybe a neighbor had called that a couple
tourists were lost amongst Farmer McNally's cows and needed a little guidance!
;)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Back on the slightly larger R-roads, we stopped for tea at Lis Ard Estate &
Restaurant which was a rather odd experience. The sign advertised a restaurant
and we drove up to see a lovely Georgian manor house set well up a long, lovely
green drive. When we went in, rather than the expected collection of venerable
antiques, we found the interior oddly sparse, the entry hall and rooms very
bright and clean with wooden floors and a few pieces of modern art. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Rather than
the cozy sense of history I'd anticipated, the modern esthetic just struck me
as rather cold and uninviting. The restaurant downstairs looked closed and we
are about to leave, but nice young lady met us and told us of course we could
have lunch. It got odd again when we asked where we should sit, she said,
"Oh, any room." We looked about and could see various drawing rooms
and a library and I'm not sure what all, so we picked the library (whose
shelves held more DVDs or CDs than books) and sat down. Again I noticed the odd
juxtaposition of a very old house but with sparely-designed, rather
square-looking modern furniture and art to match. We sat alone in the library and
when someone else took the next room, they discreetly closed the door between
us. So it was kind of like people were isolated in little quiet rooms of
retreat, saved from interaction with each other. We could hear voices down the
hall as if there were some sort of gathering going on out of sight, but it all
seemed a little surreal.<br /> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Anyhow, a lovely young man very painstakingly waited on us, everything handled
just so from the placing of the silverware to serving our tea, in the sort of
self-consciously exquisite care that made us think he might be new there. The
food was lovely, though, the tea delicious and we went on our way afterwards
feeling as if we'd briefly stepped into some scene from a very odd movie.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Our next and final destination was Knockdrum
Fort, a Neolithic site not far away. Online reading said it had been rebuilt in
the 1860s so I wondered if perhaps it would be a bit short of authentic. But
the photos looked as if we would at least have some good views. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We'd marked the
turnoff in previous travels, just a little stony farm lane that turned off into
a copse of trees. The lane was narrow but seemed passable enough so we inched
our way along. It felt like we'd gone about half a mile, though in reality it
was probably only two or three hundred yards, when we noticed the lane had
turned to grass. And then it stopped. Meaning the lane simply ended. As in
there was nowhere else to go and stone walls on all sides. And there was
certainly no place to turn around.<br />
<br />
Well, for crying out loud! Nothing on the internet mentioned that!!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Furthermore, we could see a flight of stone
stairs clambering up the hillside to some point out of sight - another point I
didn't notice while reading online! Now there we were, stuck in a rental car at
the end of some farmer's road. Actually, the farmer probably turned off at that
wide spot that went into a ploughed field a little ways back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>*sighhhh* So, rather than leave Celebsul to
sort out the mess, I got behind the wheel and she walked behind me as I
sloooowly backed the car out. <br /> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Except I kind of forgot to take off the parking brake which she'd set when we
got out to examine our predicament. And I kind of rode the clutch pretty hard,
because Reverse left to its own devices went at a near-gallop. So by the time
I'd inched the car about halfway back, I began to smell some rather warm
rubber. Oops. Another car came in behind us about that time, and Celebsul hastened
to warn them against going any further. They immediately reversed out of there
and we never saw them again. I turned the car around at the farmer's
demarcation spot and Cel nursed the poor vehicle back to a wide spot near the
road and parked. Hopefully it would do the car some good to sit and cool off
its overworked parts!<br />
<br />
Bless my good friend with a thousand blessings, even after all that, she was
still game to walk back and see the stone fort! So, off we went and up the 99
steps (or however many there really were) until we clambered at last, considerably
winded, to the top of a Neolithic world. Knockdrum Fort itself isn't as
remarkable as one might hope, mainly due to the obviousness of the rebuilding.
But within the stone ring there are a couple works of visible antiquity,
including an iron grate barring a set of stone stairs that descend to a room
beneath the earth and an upright stone with a weathered Medieval cross carved
into it. The best part, though, was as I hoped - the views. From the fort site
one can see a 360 degree panorama of the peninsula of Toe Head, from the gray sea's
horizon to hazy inland farm fields and indeed, if we'd known where to look, a
crows-eye view towards "home" at Castletownshend. Perhaps a little
too much drama attended this little detour, but the views were certainly worth
the trip!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We ended the day with a walk up the
street to the local pub called Mary Ann's. A light rain had begun to fall so we
carried our umbrellas but it was still a warm and gentle evening. Celebsul said
the place had a reputation for 5-star meals and wow, they did not disappoint. With
its low ceilings, quirky sea-captain's décor and 18<sup>th</sup> century
architecture, combined with a steady trickle of regulars whom the bartender
called by name, you might never guess to look. But this place is a little piece
of gastronomical heaven masquerading as an Irish local pub. I ordered the
salmon (along with a half pint of Guinness) and when my plate arrived it was
almost too pretty to eat! The flavors were as sublime as the presentation and
it's been a while since I so thoroughly enjoyed the simple act of eating. It
was definitely a meal to remember.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">At last we wandered back to our
lodgings and tucked in with a nightcap and our now-customary evening talk as a
light steady rain settled in for the night.</span></div>
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<br /><a href="http://a-wordsmith.blogspot.com/2016/06/ireland-june-2016-part-6.html">TO PAGE SIX</a><br /></div>
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<![endif]-->G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-498824117812748982016-06-28T17:12:00.000-07:002016-06-28T17:35:41.648-07:00Ireland - June 2016 - Part 4<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-pagination: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">June 8<sup>th</sup></span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">
- DAY 4. We decided to try the Beara Peninsula and in particular Bere Island,
advertised as one of the most pristine and unspoiled islands of western
Ireland. The coastline out there is wild, rocky and rugged, best suited to
hardy sheep and a few colorful milk cows who must have legs shorter on one side
than the other. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The town of Castlebere was a charming village right at the
water's edge that kept to southern Ireland's propensity towards painting its shops
and buildings in a rainbow of colors. It took some doing to locate the ferry
and realized right away why it had not been immediately obvious: it was the
tiniest ferry either of us had ever seen! At a tight squeeze it could fit just
4 small cars on its foredeck with the ramp folded up. We wedged ourselves in
there - only belatedly learning we should have backed aboard rather than gone
in forwards - and then we set across the narrow straight towards the island.
The sky was once again a drab overcast but even so we could see little fields
and cottages scattered about. Once we survived the experience of backing off
the ferry - with the shouted, enthusiastic and heavily-accented advice of our
captain - we set off to see what an unspoilt island was about.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">For one thing, the roads were all
just one lane wide and probably unchanged except for marginal pavement since
antiquity, and grass grew up between the tire lanes. It seemed like it would be
a windswept sort of place in harsh weather, the few trees of any side
congregating, along with the best-looking houses, on the more sheltered
landward side. The roads were so winding and small, and visibility minimalized
by hedgerows of brambles and weeds over old stone walls, that we rarely got over
10 or 15 miles per hour. So although small, it took considerable time to
navigate the island. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We first found a Neolithic stone dolmen high upon a windy,
grassy hill. Legend says that it marks the geographical center of the island,
but at any rate, it made for a gorgeous if slightly hazy view from the top of
that island world. The local sheep just looked upon us and said,
"Baaa."</span></div>
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Then we meandered our way along to the only apparent village on the island, Ballynakilla,
which we found to be, like everything else, small. There was a one-story
hostel-hotel thing, a pub and another pub. We chose the first pub, Murpheys,
because the façade mentioned food as well as a post office. Inside, the tiny
front part gave way to a room in the back for the café, where a very Irish lady
took our order for tea. She looked like just anyone's mom and I imagined her
serving guests just the same as someone showing up in her kitchen. I had a
tasty fish chowder with brown Irish bread which hit the spot nicely. Then we
continued on to see what else we'd find. The map indicated there was some sort
of late 1800s fort out there, but when we finally found it on the very far end
of the island, it was guarded by an absurdly deep mote cut out of the island
bedrock, a very high chain link fence and warning signs that the structure was
unsafe. Inside a flock of goats grazed the weeds and dozed on the buildings'
rooftops.</span></div>
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So, foiled at that endeavor we took note of a foot path and as the clouds parted
and the sun bathed down, we wandered around the fort, climbed a stile over the
fence and stepped off into a sprawl of grass and gorse that lead towards a
distant rocky beach. Supposedly at some distant point in time a Spanish ship
had landed there, but apparently nothing came of it. At any rate, it was a
wonderfully peaceful spot to mosey amongst the wildflowers as the sun finally
burned its way through.<br />
<br />
</span></div>
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Perhaps my favorite part of the whole island experience came in the form of a
couple four-legged locals. They were two little brown ponies grazing there
between patches of blackberries. The obviously older pony mare just gave us a
glance and ignored us thereafter, but I sat down in the grass and the younger
one eyed me thoroughly, grazed her way near and then wandered straight up to
give me a sniff. After that, we were great pals and I petted her while she
nosed me over and breathed in my hair. Seriously, she was the sweetest thing
and I wish I could have just stuffed her in my suitcase and took her home!
Clearly the two of them just lived out here, untrimmed, un-curried and
untroubled, but other than their feet needing a bit of grooming, they looked in
good shape. The younger one had the most amazing muscles, too!
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Looking at the time, we resumed our
loop of the island and navigated our slow, one-lane way back towards the ferry.
The plan was to make a return to the mainland and do a complete loop of the
Beara Peninsula, as well. But ... apparently I can't be trusted to read a ferry
schedule correctly, because we arrived at the quay just as the ferry
disappeared into the distance. *sighhhhh* The very sweet girl at the café took
pity on us and rang the ferryman on his cell phone, just in case he might be
making an early trip back with school kids. Alas, it was not to be. So, we sat
outside the little café in the sunshine and I fumed for an hour and a half. Due
to my mistake, we'd now be too short of time to make the Beara Peninsula drive
and get back at a reasonable hour. But at least when we boarded, this time we
backed onto the ferry properly and without drama. And then we waited.</span></div>
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<br />
A thing we have learned along the southern Irish coast: people do things here
at their own good speed. Some places talk of "island time," but here
it's, "Irish time."<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>;)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So it was that our ferryman left the boat to
freshen up at the café and didn't wander back until about 10 minutes past
departure time. But there was an unexpected blessing to that: we met a lovely
couple who were also vacationing in Ireland and while we chatted with them,
they told us about a road not far away with view that we simply must not miss:
Healy Pass. They were so enthusiastic that we decided to use that smaller
detour as a consolation for missing out on circumnavigating the entire peninsula.</span></div>
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We were not disappointed.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">The road to Healy Pass turned off into woods and
farms that splayed under the brow of high, green, bony hills and soon wound its
way up and up into a country of scoured stones and windswept grass that rippled
under a bright Irish sun. The further up we went, the more winding the road
became until, with the pass in sight, we were very likely to meet ourselves at
any turn. Indeed, from the summit the road looked like a Matchbox toy car
racetrack. There a tiny gift shop perched beneath an oversized roadside shrine,
where visitors could pause to drink in the view toward Bantry Bay or pop in for
a trinket or a soda from the sweet Irish grandmother who assured me this shop
was a family business and she made this commute - just 15 minutes, she said -
every day. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Then we got back in the car and went
over the notch-like summit towards Lauragh - and a view even more stunning than
the way we'd just come. Lakes and peaks and a view that went on forever - it
was breathtaking. We had to stop once again just to take it in. Then down and
down and down we went to reach the waterside at Kenmare. There we paused to
watch little sailboats along the Kenmare River/Bay and breathe in the salt air,
before we finally regained the main road back towards home.</span></div>
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<a href="http://a-wordsmith.blogspot.com/2016/06/ireland-june-2016-part-5.html">TO PART FIVE</a><br /></div>
G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-43323896064080856822016-06-28T17:11:00.002-07:002016-06-28T17:34:48.090-07:00 Ireland - June 2016 - Part 3<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="toa heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">June 7<sup>th</sup></span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">
- DAY 3. Today we went on up towards Killarney. Although cloudy, that was a
beautiful drive, up the N1 to Bantry and Glengarrif, then through the woods of
Glengarrif and up, up, up over the Caha Pass towards Kenmare. This route takes
you along a winding way that must be hundreds of years old, rife with gorgeous
scenery and spectacular views. I'll say here that my one complaint with Ireland
is that they have so many scenic places and so few safe spots to pull off the
road. You hear that, Ireland? You need more vista points and viewing
areas!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">:)</span></span><br />
</span></div>
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A special treat atop the Caha Pass is a roadside stop called Molly Gallivan's,
a 200 year old cottage that is now a café and a tiny shop crammed with local
crafts and woolen stuff, plus it also offers a tour of historical things on the
property including the ruins of a Famine-era cottage and a Neolithic standing
stone. We didn't take the tour but it's still just a wonderful step back in
time and lovely people running the place. I saw a dozen things I wanted to buy,
from sheepskins to pottery to little bottles of poteen (Irish moonshine,) but I
held off for the time being and we moved on.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After Kenmare the road climbed up into
the hills again, taking us over Moll's Gap. It's a wide, wild, desolate country
with beautiful views and spectacular vistas looking out and down towards the Lakes
of Killarney. The only down side to the whole thing were the danged tour buses
we kept meeting - those twisty little roads were NOT meant for behemoths of that
size!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">At the mountains' feet lay verdant
forest and many blue lakes, as well as the town of Killarney, but we didn't
spend any time in town. It looked like a big, modern place overrun with
tourists, so we just got gas and left. We did stop at a local attraction,
Muckross House and Gardens. A handsome mansion built @ 1843, it's a
treasure-trove of antiques and period life, but it is by guided tour only. Celebsul
and I were reminded forthwith that we are really not guided tour types. Our
guide was well-versed and thorough in her descriptions of each room in the
house - almost too much so, as it took a solid hour to do what we would have
done in maybe half that time. Ouch, our aching feet. ;) Still, it was an
interesting look at another age and the only way we were going to see the place.
</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">A colorful local feature are the
"jaunting cars," horse drawn carts for hire to carry tourists about
the area. Apparently the "jaunties" as the drivers are called have
been doing this for generations, a sort of family business. Carts and horses
parked both near the house and near the falls like ranks of taxi drivers, while
their drivers slouched waiting for the chance to hail passing tourists in hopes
of drumming up some business. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br />
Muckross House is the center point to the Killarney National Park, so we had
lunch in the modern café, glanced in the gift shop and then turned back towards
"home." We stopped to visit the Torc Waterfall, a sweet, woodsy
tumble of white water amidst tall trees, and stopped again at Lady's View, once
more overlooking the lakes and wide open country. Not much out there but sheep!
Well, that and the bus load of tourists who suddenly appeared, and with them a
local lad who sat down among the rocks with his set of uilleann pipes, where he
played Irish songs to the snap of shutters and the clink of coins in his case. Obviously
the jaunties are not the only locals quick to prosper from the tourist trade.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">On the road again, the views along
our way were once more nothing less than stunning - and the sun even endeavored
to peek through the clouds. Once back at Castletownshend, the sun beamed on the
water and we made our way up to the local pub, Mary Ann's, where I had a
Guinness and Cel a dram before toddling down to bed.</span></div>
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<a href="http://a-wordsmith.blogspot.com/2016/06/ireland-june-2016-part-4.html">TO PART FOUR</a><br /></div>
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<br />
<br />G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-3982084945543212912016-06-28T17:10:00.001-07:002016-06-28T21:26:13.351-07:00Ireland - June 2016 - Part 2<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-pagination: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">June 6<sup>th</sup></span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">
- DAY 2. Another day of adventuring under our belts. The weather was mild but
mostly high clouds or overcast, though the sun peeked out for a while this afternoon.
Not bad at all, just kind of flat light for photogr<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">aphy.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Today we took the R-roads and L-roads, some of which are little more than farm
lanes, through the tiny coastal village of Union Hall, a hilly farm countryside
where one had to approach bends in the road with care, lest we meet one of the local
farmers with their tractors head on. We passed through the even littler seaside
village of Glandor, which somehow looked dingier and less romantic than when I
saw it last year, and found our way out to Drombeg Stone Circle, surely one of
Ireland's most complete Neolithic monuments. Situated out amongst rolling
fields and hills of prickly yellow gorse, this was revisiting an old friend
from my previous trip. Although the sky was hazy-white overcast, not sunny like
last year, the ancient circle of stones is still a place of timelessness and
reflection. As before, someone had left a wilting gift of wildflowers at the
circle's center, and I also picked a handful of daisies to leave as a token of
... well, I'm not sure what, maybe just saying "I see you" to the
shades of those long ago people. More people began to appear and we left. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Onward again, we found a lovely
stretch of beach that reminded me a lot of Oregon with its black rocks jutting
through long swaths of sand. The waves burst in windy spume upon the shore and
there I found few seashells, mainly periwinkle. Finally the wandering, twisting
country lanes took us through green canyons of hedgerows over to Rosscarbary,
where we stopped for a bite to eat. From there we drove on out to Galley Head.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">There is a remarkable country to
see, a high, narrow plateau of patchwork farmland overlooking the sea. We knew
there was a lighthouse out there and eventually spotted it, a toy figure with
its white-and-black tower wayyy out on the headland amidst green farm fields.
To our surprise, though, public access ended near a scattering of newish houses
a half mile more short of the lighthouse. A No Trespassing sign is posted where
the road passes through the portal of some high stone ruins. Though the tourism
sites about Galley Head don't mention it, there is a much-ruined castle blocking
access to the headland. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Even more curiously, just beyond the No Trespassing
sign I could see two modern houses plunked right in the middle of the ruins.
But there's not so much as a single sign or plaque devoted to the history they
sat amongst. I had to wonder what artifacts may have turned up when they built
those things, and if anyone had bothered to catalogue or save them. Crumbling
walls and a broken-toothed square tower are all that remain of this forgotten
fortress, but they were picturesque enough and notable enough to excite some
remark - and a number of photographs - from me. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">
I've later learned the ruins belonged to a Norman castle which I've seen named
both Dun Deidi and Barry Roe. However, I can find nothing else about it.
There's considerable to be read about Galley Head Lighthouse, its history and
the fact the former lightkeepers' houses are now available as self-catering
vacation houses. But there seems nothing at all about what once must have been
an imposing Norman outpost overlooking a wild gray sea. Writing this two weeks
later, I still find that omission sad.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">After I'd had my fill of photographs
and scenery, we went in search of lunch. Clonakilty looked too busy so we
continued to Timoleague - but found it CLOSED due to the bank holiday, not even
a cup of tea to be had. However, they did have a ruined abbey, a Franciscan
house built circa 1240, which we stopped to explore. Curiously, the locals
apparently took over the old abbey as a graveyard starting in the 1700s and continued
so until at least the 1990s. Almost every inch of the ruins, barring just one
room, was filled with family headstones. So, perhaps appropriating ancient
history for more modern usage is just the way things are done. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">
<br />
We at last found lunch at the unattractively-named but charming town of
Ballinspittle, another small collection of brightly-painted shops set at odd
angles to a village square. (Or maybe village triangle: the proportions in
these little places tend to be inexact.) The Diva Cafe was cute, busy and very
tasty! From there we made our way Kinsale, figuring we ought to at least give
it a look. But just like Baltimore, the town was absolutely PACKED! We noodled
around a few shops for maybe an hour as it was a quirky, interesting place, but
you could hardly cross the street for all the traffic. So we loaded up and
headed on back to camp.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">It sounds like a lot but we kept an
easy pace and it's been great fun, lots of beautiful scenery and I'm *loving*
all the seaside stuff! That was a funny thing, too - apparently everyone goes
to the seashore for bank holidays but they're not actually *on* the seashore!
The beaches we visited were nearly empty, but the towns were packed and the
highway was bumper to bumper with folks coming home toward Cork this afternoon.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Once back at our lodgings, Celebsul
and I decided to clamber the old steps up the hill above our lodgings and visit
St Barrahane's Church nestled in the trees up there. Gravestones dating back to
the 1700s tilt this way and that along with newer headstones, and a big but
nameless crypt stood behind the church. It hadn't really dawned on us to see if
the door was unlocked, but some folks showed up also exploring the church and
they walked right on in. So, we followed. What a lovely, peaceful place. There
were two old gents stood behind us in the aisle having way too much discussion
over snapping a photograph, but they didn't stay long. Celebsul and I sat a
little space in the cool hush. Magnificent stained glass filled the windows and
memorials to parishioners dating back more than a century filled the walls. It
was easy to see who the prominent local families of the day were.<br />
<br />
Outside again, we wandered among the old graves some more, peered over the
fence at the neighboring cows and finally called it a day.</span></div>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://a-wordsmith.blogspot.com/2016/06/ireland-june-2016-part-3.html">TO PA<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">RT THREE</span></a> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">
</span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-3281334838328513822016-06-28T17:09:00.003-07:002016-06-29T17:21:06.485-07:00Ireland - June 2016 - Part 1<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">June 4<sup>th</sup></span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">
- Arrived in Dublin in good order, even managed to sleep a bit on the flight
over. Celebsul was there to greet me and after a stop at her hotel to freshen
up and grab her belongings, we were off. It turned into a beautiful sunny day
as we headed towards County Cork. We gassed up in Cashel - I could see the
ruins of the Rock of Cashel from the pumps, although most of the near side was wrapped
in scaffolding. </span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFgE5fCeAEuyoozUA7amyO-VTeuHNdEPqpbiGLspsNuH4UPsDsrMJeZi-FYGAf7frUPl-zi7xSxnW92FniMf0Fm3W_FlfbTgJukg-ioPxzxRLDE2hyphenhyphenekL3CTwjenb0Rw8U2h3Az7lcqQg/s1600/IMG_1106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFgE5fCeAEuyoozUA7amyO-VTeuHNdEPqpbiGLspsNuH4UPsDsrMJeZi-FYGAf7frUPl-zi7xSxnW92FniMf0Fm3W_FlfbTgJukg-ioPxzxRLDE2hyphenhyphenekL3CTwjenb0Rw8U2h3Az7lcqQg/s320/IMG_1106.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Then we continued on through Bandon and towards Rosscarbarry,
where we took our first look at the sea. And a beautiful look it was, brilliant
sunshine amidst the rush and roar of waves and the water almost Mediterranean
blue. It looked like most of Ireland was out in their shorts and summer clothes,
soaking up the sunshiny day. The scents and sounds of the sea sure ironed the
wrinkles out of my travel-weary soul.</span></div>
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</xml><![endif]--><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Finally
we wandered our way to our lodgings at Castletownshend. </span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="http://www.castle-townshend.com/"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">http://www.castle-townshend.com/</span></a></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The main Castle is an 18<sup>th</sup> century
manor house, very picturesque and situated right on the water. Our lodgings
were in the self-catering "cottages," one of a three-plex of
apartments in a stone building that looked like it might have once been housing
for the hired help, perhaps in the 1800s. Looking at the stonework outside, I'd
guess at one time there were more than just three apartments but they'd long
since been remodeled to accommodate 20<sup>th</sup> century guests. We found
the interior cozy, plain and well-appointed, with all the necessities for a
comfy stay. All we had to bring were our clothes, toothbrushes and groceries.</span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The
tiny village of Castletownshend perches </span>on a steeply sloping lane that runs down to the waterfront, the
street framed between green trees and stair-stepped ranks of quaint old buildings.
A small, pretty harbor filled with little sleeping boats lay right outside the
Castle's door, with a stone breakwater framing the shore. The village included
a pub and the local version of a tiny mini mart shop, but since we needed
actual food, we drove up to have a look at our "home town" for the
duration, Skibbereen. </span></div>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpIznnLSJS4vVI1bqz7l9VrHYVOXCNvMLR93I7nANBi5Ztw11lIL-1wC7Gr-UBlneJjeU49kEuYO46VeW_w8OLfiSHkXKn8S3jfpUgW4o1BvRN_VMxeLzUL3yOIwI4LdqQlov8BaEfkNM/s1600/IMG_1126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpIznnLSJS4vVI1bqz7l9VrHYVOXCNvMLR93I7nANBi5Ztw11lIL-1wC7Gr-UBlneJjeU49kEuYO46VeW_w8OLfiSHkXKn8S3jfpUgW4o1BvRN_VMxeLzUL3yOIwI4LdqQlov8BaEfkNM/s320/IMG_1126.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">We found it to be a pretty town with brightly painted old buildings
and tiny, crooked streets that went every which way. So small and twisty, in
fact, that the main route through town was strictly one-way. If you missed a
shop, you'd have to go full circle and come back around. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Fortunately that only
took about five minutes. But after a bit of driving in circles to acquaint
ourselves with the town and find somewhere to park, we discovered a quirky
little late 19<sup>th</sup>/early 20<sup>th</sup> century storefront - that my
surprise opened into a huge, modern supermarket. Belatedly we also learned
there was a big parking lot out back. Oh, well, next time! And so we were set
up with the necessities for adventures to come: bread, cheese, some breakfast
fixings and of course wine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">June 5<sup>th</sup></b> - DAY ONE. First
full day exploring<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">!</span> Had a great day, even if the
bright sunshine of yesterday was replaced by mainly overcast skies. It wasn't
cold, though, and we picked a heading westward. As Celebsul drove, I got my
first look at the scenery along the southwest coast of Ireland. Farms and
fields and hedgerows, if you wonder, and quite a lot of multi-colored cows. I'm
sure there were plenty of the stone walls Ireland is famous for, but they all
seem to be overwhelmed by brambles, bracken and shrubbery.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih0aDssEthE8hcUIjjQgNammUBQhOwUnfJSNfNhOLUOuNDPycDyde6HYnnQoWQ1o6d9MhXdD3c4bPgxZoxg9dOV-7GCrfQehAD2yVUxV358R763zqcTdw7nnBAHx746tYWZt8fgsrdA3k/s1600/IMG_1185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih0aDssEthE8hcUIjjQgNammUBQhOwUnfJSNfNhOLUOuNDPycDyde6HYnnQoWQ1o6d9MhXdD3c4bPgxZoxg9dOV-7GCrfQehAD2yVUxV358R763zqcTdw7nnBAHx746tYWZt8fgsrdA3k/s320/IMG_1185.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">One wandering little road eventually
led us the town of Baltimore, for which the town of Baltimore, Maryland is
names. It's a very picturesque village wrapped around a boat-studded bay at the
end of a peninsula that would have been nice to explore - but to our dismay, it
was utterly CHOKED with tourists. It's a bank holiday here which means a 3-day
weekend and EVERYbody was out and about. That was kind of curious - we'd driven
for miles and seen almost nobody, and suddenly here they all were. Celebsul
wondered if all of Baltimore, Maryland had descended upon Baltimore, Ireland!</span></div>
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Escaping Baltimore, we returned amongst
the patchwork fields and shorelines to Skibbereen and the N71 towards
Ballydehob. From there we headed out along the Mizen Head Peninsula. </span><a href="http://www.ireland-highlights.com/sight/mizen-peninsula-mizen-head.html"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">http://www.ireland-highlights.com/sight/mizen-peninsula-mizen-head.html</span></a><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">. Again the road turned to a wandering little lane among farms
and cow pastures and lovely views of green fields overlooking the sea. Finally the
road ended at a visitor center with a gift, a tea shop and a lot of chain link
fence long the cliffs. And once again, the people we somehow did NOT see on the
road were all parked here to take in the views. There was a path out to the old
Mizenhead light house and along the storied cliffs where ships had wrecked and
sailors lost their lives. But they charged admission for that privilege and
there were rather a lot of people about, so we had a look around, used the loo and
left.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">From there we turned towards </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Durrus,
driving through a rural, rugged countryside with yellow patches of gorse, scattered </span>farmhouses and even more scattered sheep or cows. Back on the N1, we continued
to the town of Bantry and the harbor at Bantry Bay. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">There we visited Bantry House and Garden, a noble home
in that's in the process of garden renovations after some years of neglect. </span><a href="http://www.bantryhouse.com/bantryhouse/"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">http://www.bantryhouse.com/bantryhouse/</span></a><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">.</span></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"> It's a lovely, elegant old place full of magnificent art
and furniture, as well as a highly eclecti<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">c </span>collection of 19th century
semi-Asian pottery. </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Outside, a tea room made use of a beautiful<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"> Victorian porch and at the front of the house a broad green lawn swept down to the <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">waterfront. I could easily <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">imagine the ladies and y<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">oung gents of another age strolling in t<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">heir summer finery amidst the cool sea air. Definitely worth a visit and a mosey aro<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">und the gardens - and not crowded, either!</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">From there we continued up to
Glengarriff on the other side of Bantry Bay, where tiny islands of pink
rhododendron stood just offshore - the gardens of mermaids perhaps? Someone had
told us there is an island garden that's reachable only by a few minutes' boat
ride, but the hour was beginning to grow late. So, we turned around and headed
back "home." It stays dark a lot longer than I'm used to so we didn't
even get back to the cottage until around 7 pm! We fried up some lamb chops and
were soon off to bed.</span></div>
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<a href="http://a-wordsmith.blogspot.com/2016/06/ireland-june-2016-part-2.html">TO PART TWO</a></div>
G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-45595187771973961502015-08-28T21:45:00.000-07:002015-09-01T11:46:48.197-07:00Autumn in the Air<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="uiGrid _51mz _5f0n"><tbody>
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Tonight
our cottonwood trees hold up the moon like a silver offering bowl in an
indigo sky. I can feel autumn now, see it in the fat white clouds that
coast across our skies of late, in the shadows that reach lengthening
fingers across the earth. Our Jeffrey pine is casting its long needles
on the lawn, the rabbit brush is blooming and in the high country, I've
seen willow bushes turning yellow an<span class="text_exposed_show">d
aspen turning brown. It's not a good autumn. It's Nature throwing in the
towel on a fourth year of drought and saying, "That's it, I'm done,
let's get ready for winter."<br /> <br /> The prayer of the West now is for a
change of weather and the miracle of rain. Rain for the parched earth
and stressed plants and trees, rain for the dry stream beds and
shrinking lakes. Rain for the wildfires that burn and burn and burn
beyond the ability of humans to do much more than fight defensive
battles. I'm never in a hurry for summer to end, for my flowers to
wither and the trees to go naked and lean. But I think I'm ready for a
change. For weather that means something beyond the shrinking of the
ability of our fields and woods and hills to support growing things.<br /> <br />
This fall, this winter, let there be rain. Let there be snow in the
high country and drifts on the passes and I'll shovel my driveway
without complaint. Let it be so. Please. But until then, I'll pray for
the days to pass slowly so I have time to count each blessing that
comes.</span><br />
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G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-69751365134383320882015-08-21T11:41:00.000-07:002015-09-01T11:44:00.418-07:00On Wildfires<br />
They fled like shadows on this great day, this terrible morning of red
skies and choking ash, she leading her young ones in bounding strides
through the forests that were their home. These beautiful daughters,
clean of leg and clear of eye, they matched her pace as if they shared
the same mind. But she knew they could not hold it much longer. At the
edge of a dry stream bed, she stopped. No water <span class="text_exposed_show">here to halt the red Beast that followed.<br /> <br />
Their breathing heaved in the cage of their ribs and other shadows
moved nearby: a young Wolf and his brother. Yet they spared each other
but a glance, the grey ash falling in terrible silence. On this day of
fear and fire, the boundaries between predator and prey were breaking,
crumbling before the greater need to flee and stay alive.<br /> <br />
"Come!" she hissed and they flew on. At last she came to a place she
knew and dropped their pace to a light-footed walk. Her daughters
crowded close, fearful and wary, but stayed close at her side. Finally
she halted and looked keenly about. All was as she knew it would be.<br /> <br /> "Here," she whispered. "We shall bide here."<br /> <br />
Lightly, carefully they crept from the forest's edge and into open
space. Water waited just yonder, there where the Gentle Ones jostled
nervously. She led her daughters through the sharp scent of their wool
and fear and kept watch while they drank. When done, she led them to a
nearby place of quiet and shelter.<br /> <br /> "Let us rest," she said, and bent her legs to lay down.<br /> <br /> "But, mother," the first daughter said, "what is this place?"<br /> <br />
The second daughter sniffed the air, tense and trembling, for even
through the smoke, they could smell all the things that nature taught
them to fear: metal and fuel, dogs and mankind.<br /> <br /> "It is a safe
place, my daughters," she said, and looked upon them in vast
lovingkindness. "Come and rest with me. All shall be well."<br /> <br /> "But, mother!" whispered the second daughter. "I am afraid!"<br /> <br />
"Fear not," she said, and settled herself more comfortably amidst the
fragrance of hay and horses. "Watch, my children, and learn."<br /> <br />
And they looked, her beautiful daughters, they looked and they saw. Out
there where brown smoke smothered the sun and ashes fell like bitter
snow, Men labored in ways incomprehensible to their young minds. But
where they worked, the Beast did not come. Where they worked, smoke
rolled in huge and ghostly plumes but never thence the flames.<br /> <br /> "Today," she said, "they fight for us. They fight for all of us."</span><br />
<br />
<span class="text_exposed_show">So she and her daughters rested in this place and it was good.<br /> <br /> ~ * ~<br /> </span><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><br /> This is for my friend, Tea Yamamoto, and her Pete and brother Cam, and for all who flee or fight the red Beast throughout the West. May all in harm's way be kept safe. Godspeed to those brave firefighters who pay the ultimate price.</span><br />
<br />G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-11767696613595703992014-06-13T18:58:00.000-07:002014-06-13T19:19:19.999-07:00The Nature of Dog-ness. <br />
On a border collie forum I frequent, someone asked how people see and
perceive their dogs. The answers engendered made me think and I decided
I'll share my answer. Which is:<br />
<br />
My dogs are my partners. We
stand together on a very old, well-trodden path laid down by shepherds
decades and centuries ago. Personally, I can only make poor mimicry of
what those shepherds did - and still do - for I am not a farmer and I
have no flock of my own. Perhaps there's a shepherd or farmer some<span class="text_exposed_show">where
in my family tree who walked the fells with a pair of shaggy sheepdogs
at his heels and "whistled through his fist" to bring the sheep down or
put them out. But I don't know, and I can't say. My dogs, however ...
their heritage is gloriously undiminished.</span><br />
My dogs carry, undiluted, the blood of canine kings. To some, that
ancient, hardscrabble shepherding life may have seemed like one of
servitude, but I know, and my dogs tell me, that it's in their blood as
sure as song and the sea. So, I see my dogs as furry, dusty, dirty,
muddy, hairy, four-legged miracles that have been gifted to me to
caretake and enjoy. I am their servant as much as they are mine, for I
can't demand their instinct, their talent, their heart. They share that
with me without reservation, and it's upon me to be a good custodian of
those gifts.<br />
<br />
I see my dogs as partners and companions, but in no
way human. They are better than human. They still possess what we lost
in the Garden long ages ago. Whatever pettiness they may own, it's
innocent and like as not our fault. Whatever meanness they may own, it's
without guile and again, possibly our fault. I'm glad my dogs aren't
human. I'm glad they encourage me to look outside myself, to stop short
when things go wrong and ask myself the question, "What can I do
better?"<br />
<br />
I see my dogs as friends who give me their whole hearts,
who devote themselves to loving me as no other thing on earth can or
does. But this does not preclude their dog-ness nor does it diminish
them to "little furry people." They are Dogs: honorably, faithfully,
cleverly, wisely, beautifully, joyfully, wholly Dogs. They are my gifts.
They are the axis around which my funny little world revolves. In all
things and all deeds, I always come back to their Dogness.<br />
<br />
I'm
farm-sitting for a friend this weekend. We just got done feeding sheep,
horses and chickens and in a little while, I'll bring the ewes and lambs
in off the pasture for the night. My dogs are presently napping,
content in their dogness, and they'll spring to their feet the moment I
stand, alert and ready and cocked to fire. This Dogness of theirs - I
wouldn't dream of insulting it with silly anthropomorphizing. They are
ever so much more than that.<br />
<br />
<br />
And that is how I see my dogs.<br />
.G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-88251366168183253732013-11-23T16:22:00.000-08:002013-11-23T16:22:55.652-08:00Home Sweet Ever-Lovin' Home!<div id="timeline_tab_content">
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<span class="userContent">.</span><span class="userContent">Yesterday
was our wedding anniversary. 26 years together! It was a pretty darned
good day. We went into town, saw some friends and had a very nice
breakfast and dinner out. We also bought a few needful things: a vacuum
cleaner, some bedding<span class="text_exposed_show"> - and a house. <br /> <br /> This house. Mountain House. Where we've lived for the past five and a half years.<br /> <br />
Yup, the realtor just called and said we are done. We're done? It's
ours? Just like that? Shouldn't there be .... I dunno, bugles or
drum-rolls or something?<br /> <br /> I have never had this. In all my life,
I've never had a piece of ground that I could sift the dirt through my
fingers and say, "This is mine. I belong here." But now we have just
that. This 2.05 acres with the funny little house and all its quirks,
from the bedroom door that's older than the house (it has an old
fashioned keyhole and a colored glass door knob) to the downstairs room
that's probably needed baseboards for 20 years, and the doves and blue
jays and sparrows and chickadees, the finches and thrushes, the
kingfisher and redwing blackbirds, the coyotes and bears and the pear
eating, tree climbing, porch rail walking foxes - even the chicken
killing bobcat ... they're ours. Or we're theirs.<br /> <br /> And now we
can do and fix and rearrange Stuff to totally suit ourselves, because we
are our own landlords. That is so freaking groovy. I think I'm gonna
celebrate with a cup of tea and a shortbread cookie. Welcome home to us.</span></span></div>
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G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7986792175932230489.post-6799332976665485592013-11-05T16:41:00.001-08:002013-11-05T19:07:53.816-08:00Our Trial Did Not Suck. <br />
I haven't blogged here since way back last spring, mainly because I'm not very bloggery, but today I have something to say.<br />
<br />
This past weekend, our local sheepdogging club, the High Desert Sheep Dog Association, hosted its first-ever sanctioned USBCHA field trial. Very little about the Open trial went as planned and I've winced and cringed and moaned. But now I want to write about it one more time and be done with it.<br />
<br />
First of all, our Open handlers are not alone in thinking, "Wow, that didn't go very well." Of our 29 to 30 Open competitors, only 9 or 10 per day walked away with scores. That is absolutely <i>not</i> what we had in mind!<br />
<br />
But our trial <i>did not suck</i>. Let me go over this with a few bullet points.<br />
<br />
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<li>The exhaust pen was in an awkward, inconvenient place, creating a crappy draw for dogs bringing sheep down the fetch. Why didn't we put it back in the corner behind the handler's post and the judge?<br /><br />Well, that <i>was</i> the plan. The ranch recently sold and all those acres of beautiful grass hay fields are being ripped and replanted with alfalfa, but they were reserving that particular field for our use. We reckoned on maybe 60-70 acres. The exhaust pen doubled as our night pen, so it had to be where someone could park an RV and keep watch over the sheep at night. However, with all that acreage, we could just put the pen at the end of the blacktop and the handler's post would be out away from it. The course itself would lay east-ish well beyond that. <br /><br />But a couple weeks before the trial, I got a phone call: "Will 40 acres be enough for your trial?" <br /><br />Errr ... oops. Now we had a little square field into which we must squeeze an Open course and still allow for an RV to watch sheep. We daren't risk someone bogging down in the field, nor could we camp someone on the trial course, so the exhaust pen had to stay where it was. That, we are well aware, was not ideal. But that didn't make our trial suck.<br />.</li>
<li>What the *bleep* was going on at set out, with a crowd of half a dozen people and two or three dogs on the field at once? <br /> <br />Well, simply put, dogs alone could <i>not</i> pull those sheep away from the set out pens, nor hold them once at the drop off point. They simply were not very impressed by dogs, and we learned that people actually exerted more influence than our dogs. Maybe that's how the Rafter 7 flock is handled at home. I don't know. But I have never seen (and certainly never set) sheep so adamant about running back to set out. Once these yearlings broke and bolted back, they would run right over a dog - and if the dog gripped to stop them, they would just drag it along behind. So, we had to march them out like a platoon of Marines because not one other damn thing worked. But that didn't make our trial suck.<br />.</li>
<li>Yeah, and what about those sheep? Most of our dogs couldn't even finish the course with those lousy things.<br /><br />Yeah, we kind of noticed that. Especially when we took our turns at the post and fared as poorly as everyone else. They had two speeds: run like hell or stand there and stare. <br /><br />But you know ... we had no idea. We hired range ewes. We got range ewes. I've worked set out for a few trials so I thought I knew a little bit, but these were different. Rafter 7 has also sold and these sheep will be moving to some other ranch, so maybe with all the sorting and selling they've been doing lately, these ewes just kind of went dead-headed. Heaven knows, because I don't. But we truly wish more people could have enjoyed success and come away happy. That right there is suck.<br />.</li>
<li>So, why didn't you put them out in sets of 5? Maybe that would have settled them down a little.<br /><br />True. But we only leased so many sheep and allowed for sets of 4, so had we tried to change to sets of 5, it would have meant re-running some of the sheep each day. I don't think anybody would have liked that. If done, that would have been suck.<br />.</li>
<li>Alright, then why didn't you get the sheep a couple days early and move them around the course in groups with dogs?<br /><br />You're kidding, right? The HDSDA spent over $900 to lease those sheep for 2 days, plus the cost of hay at about $20 a bale. If we'd got them two days early, those expenses would have doubled. I guess we could have doubled our entry fees, but who really wants to see that? Plus we'd need someone to camp out there to babysit the sheep those nights, too. Simply put, getting the sheep early was a financial and logistical impossibility. But that did not make our trial suck.<br /><br />.<br />Did elements of our trial suck? You bet they did.<br /><br />But did the trial itself suck? I say NO. We did the best we could with the situation we had. The trial field shrank, the sheep were difficult, the exhaust was in the wrong place and set out looked like a circle jerk. There are a number of things we'd love to have done differently, and things we'd change and improve if we do this again.<br /><br />But for this first time ... by golly, we pulled the damn thing off. We held our first Open trial and handlers went to the post and dogs went up the field, and some of the time they came back down with sheep. I'm proud as hell of our crew and all the volunteers who stepped in to keep things rolling. From our judge who dragged and fed hay Saturday evening to the handlers who came up to help at set out, from folks who fed the sheep Sunday morning before the trial crew even got there and stayed to help tear down pens Sunday afternoon, to everyone who, in countless ways, offered help and kindness and hard work ... our trial freakin' <i>rocked</i>.<br /><br />So, maybe it wasn't pretty and maybe our dogs got sucked into the Vortex of Wrongness, and what should have been good runs just died out there in the grass. But so it goes. I saw a lot of good happening out there, even if it didn't involve the sheep's behavior. I'm proud of everyone who stepped in and pulled together and did their bit to make things right.<br /><br />If you were there and you are unhappy with how things went for you and your dog, I understand. Believe me, the trial we got is NOT the trial the HDSDA planned, wanted or envisioned. But we tried. We tried our damnedest and worked our butts off, and good people showed what they were really made of.<br /><br />That's what I'm taking home from this. Our trial did not suck. Maybe the sheep did. We had no control over that. But given the situation, I think we did pretty damn good.<br /><br />And that's all I'm gonna say about that.</li>
</ul>
G. M. Atwaterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00427392920719329012noreply@blogger.com0